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Neogen Code9 Black Volume Cream

Black Volume Cream

119 energy boosting natural ingredients and 49 power boosting anthocyanin black ingredients are delivered to the skin for abundant moisturizing and anti-aging benefits. A patented formulation technique further maximizes the benefits through excapsulating these ingredients in ceramide, hyaluronic acid, and alpha lipoic acid that will plump, amplify, and pump moisture into your skin for 50 hrs after application!
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Ingredients overview

Water /​ Aqua, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Peg-240, Yeast Ferment Extract, Adansonia Digitata Leaf Extract, Butylene Glycol, Rubus Fruticosus (Blackberry) Fruit Extract, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract, Euterpe Oleracea (Acai) Fruit Extract, Allium Sativum Bulb Extract, Morus Alba Fruit Extract, Juniperus Communis Fruit Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Ribes Nigrum (Blackcurrant) Fruit Extract, Chrysanthemum Sibiricum Extract, Psidium Guajava (Guava) Fruit Extract, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Portulaca Oleracea (Green Purslane) Extract, Argania Spinosa Kernel Extract, Hibiscus Esculentus Fruit Extract, Malva Sylvestris Extract, Malt Extract, Passiflora Edulis Fruit Extract, Averrhoa Carambola (Starfruit) Fruit Extract, Chenopodium Quinoa (Quinoa) Seed Extract, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Forsythia Suspensa Fruit Extract, Laminaria Digitata (Horsetail Kelp) Extract, Acorus Calamus Root Extract, Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera (Lotus) Flower Extract, Acer Saccharum (Sugar Maple) Extract, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Angelica Gigas Root Extract, Panax Ginseng (Ginseng) Root Extract, Cornus Officinalis Fruit Extract, Schizandra Chinensis (Schizandra Berry) Fruit Extract, Asparagus Cochinchinensis Root Extract, Amber Extract, Pinus Densiflora Extract, Hydrolyzed Coral, Tremella Fuciformis (Mushroom) Extract, Ledebouriella Seseloides Root Extract, Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract, Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract, Citrus Junos Fruit Extract, Chaenomeles Sinensis (Chinese-Quince) Fruit Extract, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Flower Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides (Sea Buckthorn) Extract, Garcinia Mangostana Peel Extract, Magnolia Liliflora Flower Extract, Angelica Dahurica Root Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Leaf Extract, Angelica Archangelica Root Extract, Uncaria Tomentosa (Cat'S Claw) Extract, Lilium Tigrinum Extract, Achillea Millefolium (Common Yarrow) Extract, Laurus Nobilis Leaf Extract, Musa Sapientum (Banana) Fruit Extract, Cnidium Officinale (Marsh Parsley) Root Extract, Atractylodes Japonica Rhizome Extract, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, Mangifera Indica (Mango) Fruit Extract, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Extract, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Extract, Swiftlet Nest Extract, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract, Honey, Plumeria Rubra Flower Extract, Linum Usitatissimum (Flax) Seed Extract, Agaricus Blazei Extract, Allium Sativum Bulb Extract, Sambucus Nigra (Elder) Fruit Extract, Black Sugar Extract, Theobroma Cacao (Cacao) Extract, Rhus Semialata Gall Extract, Prunus Mume Fruit Extract, Solanum Melongena (Eggplant) Fruit Extract, Sepia, Porphyra Tenera Extract, Polygonum Fagopyrum Seed Extract, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Extract, Coffea Arabica Fruit Extract, Inonotus Obliquus Extract, Cassia Obtusifolia Seed Extract, Corthellus Shiitake Extract, Mirabilis Jalapa Seed Extract, Piper Nigrum (Black Pepper) Seed Extract, Fagus Sylvatica Seed Extract, Aronia Melanocarpa (Black Chokeberry) Fruit Extract, Dictyopteris Membranacea (Algae) Extract, Rose Extract, Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract, Anona Cherimolia Fruit Extract, Phaseolus Radiatus Extract, Centella Asiatica (Gotu Kola) Extract, Phragmites Communis Extract, Morus Alba Bark Extract, Zizyphus Jujuba Fruit Extract, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Extract, Betula Platyphylla Japonica Bark Extract, Machilus Odoratissima Bark Extract, Benincasa Cerifera Seed Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Sesamum Indicum Seed Extract, Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-Yuen Seed Extract, Coptis Chinensis Root Extract, Pinus Koraiensis Seed Extract, Bupleurum Falcatum (Sickle-Leaf Hare'S Ear) Root Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis (Baikal Skullcap) Root Extract, Polygonum Multiflorum (He Shou Wu) Root Extract, Trehalose, Ceramide 3, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Cholesterol, Acetyl Glucosamine, Propolis Extract, Lactobacillus, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Thioctic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Beta-Glucan, Potassium Hydroxide, Caprylyl Glycol, Tropolone, Polysorbate 20, Bis-Peg-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Parfum/​Fragrance, Adenosine, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Charcoal Powder, Peg-240/​Hdi Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether, Vaccinium Angustifolium (Blueberry) Fruit Extract, Sesamum Indicum Seed Extract, Glycine Max Seed Extract, Aristotelia Chilensis Fruit Extract, Caulerpa Lentillifera Extract, Sarcodon Aspratus Extract, Morus Alba Fruit Extract, Rubus Coreanus Fruit Extract, Charcoal Powder, Anona Cherimolia Fruit Extract, Caprylic/​ Capric Glycerides, Aspergillus/​Hydrolyzed Prunus Mume Seed Ferment Extract, Lactobacillus/​Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract, Lactobacillus/​Soybean Ferment Extract, Lactobacillus/​Nelumbo Nucifera Seed Ferment Filtrate

Highlights

#alcohol-free
Alcohol Free

Key Ingredients

Skim through

Ingredient name what-it-does irr., com. ID-Rating
Water / Aqua solvent
Glycerin skin-identical ingredient, moisturizer/​humectant 0, 0 superstar
Niacinamide cell-communicating ingredient, skin brightening, anti-acne, moisturizer/​humectant superstar
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid moisturizer/​humectant goodie
Peg-240 moisturizer/​humectant, solvent
Yeast Ferment Extract
Adansonia Digitata Leaf Extract
Butylene Glycol moisturizer/​humectant, solvent 0, 1
Rubus Fruticosus (Blackberry) Fruit Extract
Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract abrasive/​scrub
Euterpe Oleracea (Acai) Fruit Extract
Allium Sativum Bulb Extract
Morus Alba Fruit Extract antioxidant
Juniperus Communis Fruit Oil perfuming
Ethylhexylglycerin preservative
Ribes Nigrum (Blackcurrant) Fruit Extract emollient, perfuming
Chrysanthemum Sibiricum Extract antimicrobial/​antibacterial
Psidium Guajava (Guava) Fruit Extract
Laminaria Japonica Extract
Portulaca Oleracea (Green Purslane) Extract soothing, antioxidant goodie
Argania Spinosa Kernel Extract
Hibiscus Esculentus Fruit Extract
Malva Sylvestris Extract emollient, soothing
Malt Extract
Passiflora Edulis Fruit Extract
Averrhoa Carambola (Starfruit) Fruit Extract
Chenopodium Quinoa (Quinoa) Seed Extract
Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Forsythia Suspensa Fruit Extract antioxidant
Laminaria Digitata (Horsetail Kelp) Extract
Acorus Calamus Root Extract perfuming
Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root Extract
Nelumbo Nucifera (Lotus) Flower Extract
Acer Saccharum (Sugar Maple) Extract
Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract soothing, emollient goodie
Angelica Gigas Root Extract
Panax Ginseng (Ginseng) Root Extract antioxidant, emollient goodie
Cornus Officinalis Fruit Extract
Schizandra Chinensis (Schizandra Berry) Fruit Extract
Asparagus Cochinchinensis Root Extract
Amber Extract
Pinus Densiflora Extract antioxidant
Hydrolyzed Coral
Tremella Fuciformis (Mushroom) Extract moisturizer/​humectant goodie
Ledebouriella Seseloides Root Extract
Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract
Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract
Citrus Junos Fruit Extract
Chaenomeles Sinensis (Chinese-Quince) Fruit Extract antioxidant, emollient, moisturizer/​humectant
Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Extract
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Flower Extract
Hippophae Rhamnoides (Sea Buckthorn) Extract
Garcinia Mangostana Peel Extract
Magnolia Liliflora Flower Extract
Angelica Dahurica Root Extract
Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Leaf Extract soothing, antimicrobial/​antibacterial goodie
Angelica Archangelica Root Extract perfuming
Uncaria Tomentosa (Cat'S Claw) Extract
Lilium Tigrinum Extract
Achillea Millefolium (Common Yarrow) Extract soothing, surfactant/​cleansing
Laurus Nobilis Leaf Extract
Musa Sapientum (Banana) Fruit Extract
Cnidium Officinale (Marsh Parsley) Root Extract
Atractylodes Japonica Rhizome Extract
Salicornia Herbacea Extract antioxidant, skin brightening, moisturizer/​humectant goodie
Mangifera Indica (Mango) Fruit Extract
Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Extract soothing, emollient, moisturizer/​humectant goodie
Opuntia Ficus-Indica Extract soothing, moisturizer/​humectant goodie
Swiftlet Nest Extract
Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract emollient
Honey soothing, moisturizer/​humectant, antimicrobial/​antibacterial goodie
Plumeria Rubra Flower Extract
Linum Usitatissimum (Flax) Seed Extract perfuming
Agaricus Blazei Extract
Allium Sativum Bulb Extract
Sambucus Nigra (Elder) Fruit Extract
Black Sugar Extract moisturizer/​humectant goodie
Theobroma Cacao (Cacao) Extract
Rhus Semialata Gall Extract
Prunus Mume Fruit Extract moisturizer/​humectant
Solanum Melongena (Eggplant) Fruit Extract
Sepia
Porphyra Tenera Extract
Polygonum Fagopyrum Seed Extract
Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Fruit Extract soothing, antioxidant, moisturizer/​humectant goodie
Coffea Arabica Fruit Extract antioxidant
Inonotus Obliquus Extract
Cassia Obtusifolia Seed Extract
Corthellus Shiitake Extract
Mirabilis Jalapa Seed Extract
Piper Nigrum (Black Pepper) Seed Extract
Fagus Sylvatica Seed Extract
Aronia Melanocarpa (Black Chokeberry) Fruit Extract antioxidant goodie
Dictyopteris Membranacea (Algae) Extract antioxidant
Rose Extract
Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract
Anona Cherimolia Fruit Extract
Phaseolus Radiatus Extract
Centella Asiatica (Gotu Kola) Extract soothing, antioxidant, moisturizer/​humectant goodie
Phragmites Communis Extract
Morus Alba Bark Extract
Zizyphus Jujuba Fruit Extract
Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Extract
Betula Platyphylla Japonica Bark Extract
Machilus Odoratissima Bark Extract
Benincasa Cerifera Seed Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract soothing, skin brightening superstar
Sesamum Indicum Seed Extract soothing
Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-Yuen Seed Extract
Coptis Chinensis Root Extract antioxidant
Pinus Koraiensis Seed Extract perfuming
Bupleurum Falcatum (Sickle-Leaf Hare'S Ear) Root Extract
Scutellaria Baicalensis (Baikal Skullcap) Root Extract soothing, antioxidant, antimicrobial/​antibacterial, moisturizer/​humectant goodie
Polygonum Multiflorum (He Shou Wu) Root Extract
Trehalose moisturizer/​humectant goodie
Ceramide 3 skin-identical ingredient goodie
Hydrogenated Lecithin emollient, emulsifying goodie
Cholesterol skin-identical ingredient, emollient 0, 0 goodie
Acetyl Glucosamine skin-identical ingredient, skin brightening goodie
Propolis Extract
Lactobacillus
Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Thioctic Acid antioxidant goodie
1,2-Hexanediol solvent
Beta-Glucan soothing, moisturizer/​humectant goodie
Potassium Hydroxide buffering
Caprylyl Glycol moisturizer/​humectant, emollient
Tropolone preservative
Polysorbate 20 emulsifying, surfactant/​cleansing 0, 0
Bis-Peg-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane emollient, moisturizer/​humectant, surfactant/​cleansing
Carbomer viscosity controlling 0, 1
Triethanolamine buffering 0, 2
Parfum/Fragrance perfuming icky
Adenosine cell-communicating ingredient goodie
Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract
Charcoal Powder abrasive/​scrub
Peg-240/Hdi Copolymer Bis-Decyltetradeceth-20 Ether viscosity controlling
Vaccinium Angustifolium (Blueberry) Fruit Extract soothing
Sesamum Indicum Seed Extract soothing
Glycine Max Seed Extract
Aristotelia Chilensis Fruit Extract
Caulerpa Lentillifera Extract
Sarcodon Aspratus Extract antioxidant goodie
Morus Alba Fruit Extract antioxidant
Rubus Coreanus Fruit Extract
Charcoal Powder abrasive/​scrub
Anona Cherimolia Fruit Extract
Caprylic/ Capric Glycerides emollient, emulsifying
Aspergillus/Hydrolyzed Prunus Mume Seed Ferment Extract emollient
Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract exfoliant goodie
Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract
Lactobacillus/Nelumbo Nucifera Seed Ferment Filtrate skin brightening

Neogen Code9 Black Volume Cream
Ingredients explained

Also-called: Aqua;Water | What-it-does: solvent

Good old water, aka H2O. The most common skincare ingredient of all. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product. 

It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water. 

Glycerin - superstar
Also-called: Glycerol | What-it-does: skin-identical ingredient, moisturizer/humectant | Irritancy: 0 | Comedogenicity: 0
  • A natural moisturizer that’s also in our skin
  • A super common, safe, effective and cheap molecule used for more than 50 years
  • Not only a simple moisturizer but knows much more: keeps the skin lipids between our skin cells in a healthy (liquid crystal) state, protects against irritation, helps to restore barrier
  • Effective from as low as 3% with even more benefits for dry skin at higher concentrations up to 20-40%
  • High-glycerin moisturizers are awesome for treating severely dry skin
Read all the geeky details about Glycerin here >>

Niacinamide - superstar
Also-called: vitamin B3, nicotinamide | What-it-does: cell-communicating ingredient, skin brightening, anti-acne, moisturizer/humectant
  • A multi-functional skincare superstar with several proven benefits for the skin
  • Great anti-aging, wrinkle smoothing ingredient used at 4-5% concentration
  • Fades brown spots alone or in combination with amino sugar, acetyl glucosamine
  • Increases ceramide synthesis that results in a stronger, healthier skin barrier and better skin hydration
  • Can help to improve several skin conditions including acne, rosacea, and atopic dermatitis
Read all the geeky details about Niacinamide here >>

What-it-does: moisturizer/humectant

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is a low molecular weight, chemically chopped up version of the naturally big molecule and current IT-moisturizer, Hyaluronic Acid (HA). The TL; DR version of HA is that it's a huge polymer (big molecule from repeated subunits) found in the skin that acts as a sponge helping the skin to retain water, making it plump and elastic. As HA is a polymer, the subunits can be repeated many times (as a high-molecular-weight version), or just a few times (as a low-molecular-weight version).

We wrote in detail at HA about how different molecular weight versions do different things both as a component of the skin and as a skincare ingredient, so click here and read about all the details. Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid can also come in different molecular-weight versions with different properties:

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

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What-it-does: moisturizer/humectant, solvent | Irritancy: 0 | Comedogenicity: 1

Butylene glycol, or let’s just call it BG, is a multi-tasking colorless, syrupy liquid. It’s a great pick for creating a nice feeling product.  

BG’s main job is usually to be a solvent for the other ingredients. Other tasks include helping the product to absorb faster and deeper into the skin (penetration enhancer), making the product spread nicely over the skin (slip agent), and attracting water (humectant) into the skin.

Also-called: Blackberry Extract | What-it-does: astringent

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Also-called: Acai Extract

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Also-called: Garlic Bulb Extract

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

What-it-does: antioxidant

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

What-it-does: perfuming

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

What-it-does: preservative, deodorant

If you have spotted ethylhexylglycerin on the ingredient list, most probably you will see there also the current IT-preservative, phenoxyethanol. They are good friends because ethylhexylglycerin can boost the effectiveness of phenoxyethanol (and other preservatives) and as an added bonus it feels nice on the skin too.

Also, it's an effective deodorant and a medium spreading emollient

What-it-does: astringent, emollient, perfuming

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What-it-does: astringent

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Also-called: Purslane Extract | What-it-does: soothing, antioxidant

Portulaca Oleracea is a nice succulent with bright yellow flowers and edible nutritious vegetables. It's a famous plant in Korean traditional medicine to treat infection and irritated skin.

Modern research confirms that it's loaded with skin-goodies: it's the richest green plant source of omega-3 fatty acids (α-linolenic acid), contains NMFs (polysaccharides and amino acids),  vitamins (β-carotene), minerals, and antioxidants (yellow betaxanthins and reddish betacyanins). Thanks to all its beneficial components, Purslane Extract has several magic properties: it's a great anti-inflammatory and antioxidant agent and also has wound healing abilities

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Also-called: Mallow Extract | What-it-does: astringent, emollient, soothing

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What-it-does: antioxidant

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Also-called: Horsetail Kelp Extract

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

What-it-does: perfuming

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Also-called: Sugar Maple Extract

The extract coming from the Sugar Maple tree, the one whose leaf is on the Canadian flag and gives us maple syrup.

The main reason it is used in skin care is that it contains natural AHA acids, namely Malic and Tartaric, and hence why it supposedly helps slough off dead skin cells in combination with other acid-containing fruit extracts as part of the trade name ACB Fruit Mix. The manufacturer claims that both malic and tartaric increase elasticity in the skin, but from our research, the only confirmed uses of these acids are as pH adjusters, especially in the tiny amounts they can be found in the Fruit Mix (less than 1%).  

Also-called: Cucumber Fruit Extract | What-it-does: soothing, emollient

Cucumber is a nice, non-irritating plant extract that’s known for it’s soothing and emollient properties. It’s not something new to put it on our face: even Cleopatra used it to “preserve her skin”.

It’s commonly believed that cucumber is the answer to puffy eyes, but there is no research confirming this. What research does confirm is that it contains amino acids and organic acids that’s helpful for the skin’s acid mantle. There is also an enzyme (called shikimate dehydrigenase) in the pulp that’s shown to have anti-inflammatory properties.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Also-called: True Ginseng, Ginseng, Korean Ginseng | What-it-does: antioxidant, emollient

A  traditional Korean medicine used for more than 2000 years. Regarding skin care, its main thing seems to be enhancing skin nutrition and metabolism as a result of improving blood circulation.

It also contains biologically active components referred to as ginseng saponins (ginsenosides) that have potent antioxidant properties

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What-it-does: antioxidant

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What-it-does: moisturizer/humectant

polysaccharide (a big sugar molecule) coming from the edible fruit bodies of the Silver Ear mushroom in China. It's claimed to be an awesome moisturizer with slightly greater water-holding capacities than HA. We wrote more about Tremella here >> 

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Also-called: Witch Hazel Leaf Extract;Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract | What-it-does: soothing, antimicrobial/antibacterial, astringent

The extract created from the leaves of the hazelnut-bush-like-magic-tree, commonly called Witch Hazel. We have gone into detail about Witch Hazel in cosmetic products here (it's astringent, soothing, antioxidant and antibacterial), but the important part to know about the leaves is that they contain much, much less active components than the bark. In fact, it contains hardly any tannins (only 0.04%) and the most active component in the leaves is the antibacterial gallic acid

Too many tannins can be very astringent and irritating to the skin, so this is not necessarily a bad thing. Even the small amount of active components in the leaves seem to give it nice soothing, astringent, and antibacterial properties

What-it-does: perfuming

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

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Also-called: Guardiant, Glasswort Extract | What-it-does: antioxidant, skin brightening, moisturizer/humectant

A plant extract coming from glasswort, a type of succulent that grows in the salt marshes along the coastline of South Korea. According to its Korean manufacturer, it contains good-for-the-skin things like betaine, amino acids and minerals and the extract can strengthen the skin barrier, increase skin recovery and provide deep moisturization effect

There is also an in-vitro (not done on real people but in the lab) study from 2009 that shows promising antioxidant and skin whiting properties about the Salicornia Herbacea Extract and concludes that "it would be a good candidate for skin rejuvenating agent".

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Also-called: Aloe Leaf Extract | What-it-does: soothing, emollient, moisturizer/humectant

The extract coming from the juice containing leaves of the Aloe vera plant. It's usually a hydroglycolic extract (though  oil extract for the lipid parts also exists) that has similar moisturizing, emollient and anti-inflammatory properties as the juice itself. We have written some more about aloe here.

Also-called: Prickly Pear, Nopal, Indian Fig | What-it-does: soothing, moisturizer/humectant

Prickly pear is a cactus that’s native to Mexico. It has large, sweet fruit that’s called tunas and has been used as a source of food since pre-Hispanic Mexico. Currently jams and jellies are produced from it and also a traditional Mexican alcoholic drink called colonche.

But what is it doing in our skincare products? Well, according to swiss manufacturer, Mibelle its two main properties are that it soothes and hydrates the skin.  And what’s more, they have also created some nice test results both in vitro and in vivo (in the lab tubes and on humans) showing that Opuntia Ficus-Indica can protect skin cells against UV light

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Also-called: Coconut Fruit Extract | What-it-does: emollient

The extract coming from the coconut fruit. It is a similar thing to coconut water and fruit juice and is loaded with sugars, minerals, amino acids. It is also claimed to have vitalizing and energizing effects, and some smoothing, emollient and hydrating props.

If you are into coconut, we have more details at coconut water and coconut oil

Honey - goodie
Also-called: Mel | What-it-does: soothing, moisturizer/humectant, antimicrobial/antibacterial

We all know honey as the sweet, gooey stuff that is lovely to sweeten a good cup of tea and we have good news about putting honey all over our skin. It is just as lovely on the skin as it is in the tea. 

The great review article about honey in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology writes that it is arguably the oldest skincare ingredient and evidence from around 4500 BC mentions honey in some eye cream recipes. Chemically speaking, it is a bee-derived, supersaturated sugar solution.  About 95% of honey dry weight is sugar and the other 5% consists of a great number of other minor components including proteins, amino acids, vitamins, enzymes, and minerals

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

What-it-does: perfuming

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

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Also-called: Garlic Bulb Extract

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Also-called: Elderberry Fruit Extract | What-it-does: astringent

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Also-called: Sugar Cane Extract;Saccharum Officinarum Extract | What-it-does: moisturizer/humectant

Also known as Sugarcane, Saccharum Officinarum is a handy moisturizing ingredient mostly used as a humectant. This means that it can help the skin to attract water and then to hold onto it. 
 
It bears a close relationship to AHA superstar, Glycolic Acid that can be derived from it, so it's often claimed that Sugarcane Extract itself also exfoliates and brightens the skin. We could not find any research studies to back this up, but Saccharum Officinarum very often comes to the formula combined with other acid containing plant extracts trade named ACB Fruit Mix. According to manufacturer data, 5% of the fruit mix increases cellular renewal by 24%, while 4% pure Glycolic did the same by 33%. So maybe, a tiny bit of exfoliation, but if you want proven efficacy, stick to pure acids. 

Also-called: Cocoa Extract

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

What-it-does: moisturizer/humectant

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

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Also-called: Grape Fruit Extract | What-it-does: soothing, antioxidant, moisturizer/humectant

When it comes to grape and skincare, the seed extract and the seed oil steals most of the show. The reason for that is that the seed contains the majority of the skin goodies, the antioxidant superstar polyphenols. 

The fruit also contains some, but it's less potent. However - according to manufacturer info - the fruit extract is not only an antioxidant, but it's also a soothing, moisturizing and nourishing agent

What-it-does: antioxidant

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Also-called: Black Chokeberry | What-it-does: antioxidant

The extract coming from the dark colored berry called black chokeberry. It looks similar to the blueberry but is even darker and the berries do not taste nice and yummy but are rather sour. It's mainly used for juice, jam, and wine production but not as a fruity snack. 

As for skincare and the black chokeberry, we have good news: the berries are loaded with stuff good-for-the-skin including  high amounts of antioxidant polyphenols (mainly anthocyanins), some astringent tannins, hydrating sugar compounds as well as some minerals (relatively high contents of potassium and zinc, and some quantities of Na, Ca, Mg, and Fe) and nice vitamins (vitamins B1, B2, B6, and C).  

What-it-does: antioxidant

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Also-called: Gotu Kola, Tiger Grass | What-it-does: soothing, antioxidant, moisturizer/humectant

Centella Asiatica - or sometimes also called Gotu Kola or Cica - has been used in folk medicine for hundreds of years. It’s traditionally used to improve small wounds, burns and scratches and it’s also a well known anti-inflammatory agent for eczema.

Recently science has taken an interest in Gotu Kola as well and it turns out it really has many active compounds with several benefits. Just for hard-core geeks, the main biologically active compounds are pentacyclic triterpenoid saponins called asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic and madecassic acid (also called centellosides).

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Also-called: Licorice Root;Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract | What-it-does: soothing, skin brightening

You might know licorice as a sweet treat from your childhood, but it's actually a legume that grows around the Mediterranean Sea, the Middle East, central and southern Russia. It's sweet and yellow and not only used for licorice all sorts but it's also a skincare superstar thanks to two magic properties:

Nr. 1 magic property is that it has skin-lightening or to say it another way depigmenting properties. The most active part is called glabridin. The topical application (meaning when you put it on your face) of 0.5% glabridin was shown to inhibit UVB caused pigmentation of guinea pigs. Another study even suggested that licorice is more effective than the gold standard skin-lightening agent hydroquinone. All in all, licorice is considered to be one of the safest skin lightening agents with the fewest side effects.

What-it-does: soothing

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

What-it-does: antioxidant

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

What-it-does: perfuming

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Also-called: Skullcap Root Extract | What-it-does: soothing, antioxidant, antimicrobial/antibacterial, astringent, moisturizer/humectant

A traditional Chinese herbal medicine loaded with potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory flavonoids such as baicalin, baicalein, and wogonin.

If that would not be enough, Skullcap Root is also claimed to have antimicrobial and antifungal properties (also against P.acnes and Malassezia furfur) as well as some skin-brightening activity. A multi-functional skin-goodie.

Also-called: Fo Ti Root

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Trehalose - goodie
What-it-does: moisturizer/humectant

A type of sugar that has water-binding properties and helps to keep your skin hydrated

Ceramide 3 - goodie
Also-called: Ceramide NP | What-it-does: skin-identical ingredient

One of the many types of ceramides that can be found naturally in the upper layer of the skin. Ceramides make up about 50% of the goopy stuff that's between our skin cells and play a super important role in having a healthy skin barrier and keeping the skin hydrated. It works even better when combined with its pal, Ceramide 1.

We wrote way more about ceramides at ceramide 1, so click here to know more.

What-it-does: emollient, emulsifying

It's the chemically chopped up version of normal lecithin. Most often it's used to create liposomes and to coat and stabilize other ingredients. 

Cholesterol - goodie
What-it-does: skin-identical ingredient, emollient | Irritancy: 0 | Comedogenicity: 0

It's one of the important lipids that can be found naturally in the outer layer of the skin. About 25% of the goopy stuff between our skin cells consists of cholesterol. Together with ceramides and fatty acids, they play a vital role in having a healthy skin barrier and keeping the skin hydrated. 

Apart from being an important skin-identical ingredient, it's also an emollient and stabilizer

An amino acid sugar that can be found in the skin and does there good and important things. One of them is that it's a precursor for the biosynthesis of superstar moisturizer, hyaluronic acid. So acetyl glucosamine itself is also an important skin-identical ingredient and natural moisturizing factor.

But that is not all, acetyl glucosamine has two other great properties proved by double-blind clinical trials. First, it's a promising ingredient against wrinkles:  2% can improve wrinkles, particularly in the eye area.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

A type of bucket or donut-shaped molecule with a water-loving outer side and an oil-loving inner side that is used mostly to encapsulate other actives in cosmetics. 

Thioctic Acid - goodie
Also-called: Alpha-Lipoic Acid | What-it-does: antioxidant

Alpha-Lipoic Acid (ALA) is a great antioxidant that's also part of the body's natural antioxidant system. It's soluble both in water-rich and lipid-rich environments so it's versatile and can interact with many types of evil oxidants as well as other nice antioxidants. 

ALA seems to be a great choice for topical use as studies show it can penetrate the skin rapidly where it's converted to DHLA (dihydrolipoic acid), an even more potent antioxidant molecule.  A nicely designed (we mean double-blind, placebo-controlled) 12-week study from 2003 confirmed that 5% ALA cream can decrease skin roughness and improve general signs of photoaging statistically significantly.  A slight catch, though, is that burning and warmth in the skin was quite a common side effect, especially in the first 4 weeks. 

What-it-does: solvent

A really multi-functional helper ingredient that can do several things in a skincare product: it can bring a soft and pleasant feel to the formula, it can act as a humectant and emollient, it can be a solvent for some other ingredients (for example it can help to stabilize perfumes in watery products) and it can also help to disperse pigments more evenly in makeup products. And that is still not all: it can also boost the antimicrobial activity of preservatives

Beta-Glucan - goodie

Beta-Glucan is a nice big molecule composed of many smaller sugar molecules (called polysaccharide). It’s in the cell walls of yeast, some mushrooms, seaweeds, and cereals.

It’s a real goodie no matter if you eat it or put it on your face. Eating it is anti-diabetic, anti-cancer, and even lowers blood cholesterol. 

What-it-does: buffering

It's a very alkaline stuff that helps to set the pH of the cosmetic formula to be just right. It's similar to the more often used sodium hydroxide and pretty much the same of what we wrote there applies here too. 

It’s a handy multi-tasking ingredient that gives the skin a nice, soft feel. At the same time, it also boosts the effectiveness of other preservatives, such as the nowadays super commonly used phenoxyethanol

The blend of these two (caprylyl glycol + phenoxyethanol) is called Optiphen, which not only helps to keep your cosmetics free from nasty things for a long time but also gives a good feel to the finished product. It's a popular duo.

What-it-does: preservative

A pale yellow solid material that helps cosmetic products not to go wrong too soon aka preservative.

It has antioxidant and antibacterial activity and can be used synergistically with IT-preservative phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol and Caprylyl Glycol to form a broad spectrum preservative system for cosmetic formulas. 

What-it-does: emulsifying, surfactant/cleansing | Irritancy: 0 | Comedogenicity: 0

It's a common little helper ingredient that helps water and oil to mix together. Also, it can help to increase the solubility of some other ingredients in the formula. 

Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane is a silicone that is water dispersible (as opposed to most other silicones that are usually oil dispersible). It makes the skin smooth and nice (emollient), moisturizes, helps to reduce tackiness, and also has some foam boosting properties. It is often used in light, watery formulas to give them an extra silky feel

What-it-does: viscosity controlling, emulsion stabilising | Irritancy: 0 | Comedogenicity: 1

A big molecule created from repeated subunits (a polymer of acrylic acid) that magically converts a liquid into a nice gel formula.  It usually has to be neutralized with a base (such as sodium hydroxide) for the thickening to occur and it creates viscous, clear gels that also feel nice and non-tacky on the skin. No wonder, it is a very popular and common ingredient. Typically used at 1% or less in most formulations.

What-it-does: buffering | Irritancy: 0 | Comedogenicity: 2

It’s a little helper ingredient that helps to set the pH of a cosmetic formulation to be just right. It’s very alkaline (you know the opposite of being very acidic): a 1% solution has a pH of around 10.

It does not have the very best safety reputation but in general, you do not have to worry about it. 

Also-called: Fragrance, Parfum | What-it-does: perfuming

Exactly what it sounds: nice smelling stuff put into cosmetic products so that the end product also smells nice. Fragrance in the US and parfum in the EU is a generic term on the ingredient list that is made up of 30 to 50 chemicals on average (but it can have as much as 200 components!). 

If you are someone who likes to know what you put on your face then fragrance is not your best friend - there's no way to know what’s really in it.  

Adenosine - goodie

Adenosine is an important little compound in our body that has a vital cell-signalling role. Research on smearing it on our face is also promising and shows so far a couple of things:

  • It can help with wound healing
  • It’s a good anti-inflammatory agent
  • It might even help with skin’s own collagen production and improve skin firmness and elasticity
  • It helps with barrier repair and protection
  • It might be even useful for the hair helping with hair thickness and hair growth

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

What-it-does: viscosity controlling

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Also-called: Blueberry Extract | What-it-does: soothing

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

What-it-does: soothing

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Also-called: Black Soybean Extract

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Also-called: Shingled Hedgehog Mushroom Extract | What-it-does: antioxidant

The extract coming from a nice mushroom with a  large, brownish cap with large brown scales. It contains a bunch of potentially useful stuff: fatty acids, polysaccharides, sterols and antioxidant polyphenols (gallic acid). In skin care products, its most well-established job is being an antioxidant agent.

What-it-does: antioxidant

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

What-it-does: emollient, emulsifying

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

What-it-does: emollient

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Also-called: Pomegranate Enzyme | What-it-does: exfoliant

It's the fancy name for pomegranate enzyme that's obtained by fermenting the pomegranate fruit with Lactobacil­lus lactis. The fermentation process makes the desired phytochemicals readily available and selective filtration techniques are used to isolate the  proteolytic frac­tions.

The end result is the enzyme that increases cell renewal and can be an alternative to acid exfoliation (though it is not as effective as glycolic acid even according to the manufacturer's measurements not to speak about the other benefits of glycolic acid). 

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

What-it-does: skin brightening

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

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