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Hamamelis Virginiana Extract

goodie
Also-called-like-this: Witch Hazel Extract

Official CosIng Information

Details

Witch hazel is a smallish tree (up to 5m) that's native to North-America, has nice yellow flowers and is similar to the hazelnut bush (hence the name).  

As for skincare, it's loaded with active components that have a bunch of magic properties, like astringent, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and anti-bacterial. It's also a well-known vasoconstrictor (it makes the blood vessels narrower) and promotes the healing of broken skin by tightening up the skin proteins and thus creating a protective covering.

The complication, however, is that different extracts and distillates can be made from different parts of the plant (bark, twigs, and leaves are typically used) and different extraction methods from different parts produce different results. So if you see only Witch Hazel Extract or Witch Hazel Water on the ingredient list, it's a bit hard to know what you're actually getting but we will try to summarize the possibilities to give an idea.

The main biologically active components in Witch Hazel are hamamelitannin (a potent astringent and antioxidant), catechins (anti-inflammatory and antioxidant) and gallic acid (antibacterial). The bark extract contains by far the most hamamelitannin and it has the most gallic acid and catechins. The twigs contain fewer catechins, less gallic acid, and much less hamamelitannin (4.77% vs 0.18%). The leaves contain hardly any tannins (0.04%) or catechins and contain a medium amount of gallic acid (compared to the bark and twigs).

Witch Hazel also contains tiny amounts of the essential oil and fragrance component eugenol, but the amount is so small that it's probably not significant for the skin.

Apart from the differences in active components in different parts of the Witch Hazel bush, the extraction methods also vary. Witch Hazel Distillate contains 14% added alcohol according to the USP specifications  and alcohol is, at best drying, and at worst skin-damaging. Luckily, there are also alcohol-free distillates, so if you prefer no alcohol check the ingredient list carefully. Witch Hazel Extracts can also be made in different ways: browsing Ulprospector, we could find hydroglycolic, hydroalcoholic and glicerine/water based extracts.

Well-known skin care expert, Paula Begoun rates witch hazel as poor and says,  "depending on the form of witch hazel, you’re exposing your skin either to a sensitizing amount of alcohol or to tannins, or both." This might be the case if you are dealing with an alcoholic witch hazel bark water or extract, but looking at CosIng (the official INCI name listing of the EU), witch hazel bark water or witch hazel bark extract are not listed ingredients. Bark and leaf or bark and twig or all three are used together to create extracts, so the chance that there is too much hamamelitannin in the final cosmetic ingredient seems small. Also alcohol-free extracts and distillates exist; actually, the majority seem to be alcohol-free nowadays. So all in all, we think "Hamamelis Virginiana Extract" on the ingredient list is nothing to worry about.

We even found a German study that compared the efficacy of Hamamelis ointment to panthenol ointment for soothing the skin in children (from 27 days to 11 years old). They observed 309 children and concluded that both ointments were similarly effective but the one with Hamamelis was even better tolerated (98.2% vs. 92.3% tolerated well the ointments in the two groups).

All in all, Witch Hazel Extract is a sloppy INCI name (btw, not in the CosIng listing), and you do not really know what you're getting. Most probably though, you are getting a goody with nice astringent, soothing, antibacterial, and even antioxidant properties.

Show me some proof

  • Wang, Huafu, Gordon J. Provan, and Keith Helliwell. "Determination of hamamelitannin, catechins and gallic acid in witch hazel bark, twig and leaf by HPLC." Journal of pharmaceutical and biomedical analysis 33.4 (2003): 539-544.
  • Wolff, Helmut H., and Meinhard Kieser. "Hamamelis in children with skin disorders and skin injuries: results of an observational study." European journal of pediatrics 166.9 (2007): 943-948.
  • Korting, H. C., et al. "Anti-inflammatory activity of hamamelis distillate applied topically to the skin." European journal of clinical pharmacology 44.4 (1993): 315-318.
  • Touriño, Sonia, et al. "Highly galloylated tannin fractions from witch hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) bark: electron transfer capacity, in vitro antioxidant activity, and effects on skin-related cells." Chemical research in toxicology 21.3 (2008): 696-704.

Products with Hamamelis Virginiana Extract

Buck Naked Soap Company Honeysuckle Facial Toner Skin Brightening Formula Dickinson’s Original Witch Hazel Pore Perfecting Toner Frudia Avocado Relief Cream Frudia Avocado Relief Essence Toner GOA Oil-Free Protein Moisturizer GROUND PLAN 24 Hour Secret Mist Humphrey's Certified Organic Witch Hazel Kerah Lane Razor Bump & Ingrown Hair Formula PCA C Quench Antioxidant Serum Secret Key Witch-Hazel Pore Clear Toner 100% Pure Tea Tree & Willow Clarifying Astringent 100% Pure Tea Tree & Willow Clarifying Astringent African Botanics Nutritive Molecule Serum African Botanics Resurrection Cell Recovery Serum Arcona Desert Mist® Arcona MEN Consistency™ Arcona Youth Serum™ Aveda Botanical Kinetics™ Purifying Creme Cleanser Christina Moss Organic Facial Toner Dr Song Vitamin C Serum EO LABORATORIE` Natural Facial Washing Gel Moisturizing Earth Science Clarifying Herbal Astringent Eight Saints Pep-Rally Hydrating Gel Serum Grace & Stella Co. Acne Treatment Facial Sheet Masks Kopari Coconut Rose Toner MINISO Hyaluronic Acid Essence Toner MUKTI Blemish Control Mild By Nature Unscented Face Mist With Aloe Vera & Witch Hazel Monu Active Toner Monu Calming Cream Monu Clarifying Toner Monu Firming Moisturiser Monu Revitalising Moisturiser Nanowhite Refining Treatment Toner Skinoxy Advanced 4D Hyaluron Booster Serum Skinstitut Even Blend Serum Thayers Alcohol-Free Cucumber Witch Hazel Toner Thayers Alcohol-Free Original Witch Hazel Toner Thayers Rose Petal Facial Toner Triumph & Disaster Logic Toner Ultima II Chr Essentials Purifying Toner Velvet Report Rose Toner ViolaSkin Vitamin C Serum Wildcraft Balance Geranium Orange Blossom Toner Zingari Man After Shave Balm Zo Calming Toner Ph Balancer 100% Pure Fermented Rice Water Toner Amara Beauty Hyaluronic Acid Serum Arcona Tabula Rasa Spot Repair Treatment Art Naturals Retinol Serum