Drunk Elephant
Protini™ Polypeptide Moisturizer
Uploaded on 03/21/2023
A protein moisturizer that combines signal peptides, growth factors, amino
acids, and pygmy waterlily to visibly improve skin‘s tone, texture, and firmness.
Ingredients
| what‑it‑does | solvent |
Normal (well kind of - it's purified and deionized) water. Usually the main solvent in cosmetic products.
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| what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient | moisturizer/humectant |
| irritancy, com. | 0, 0 |
A real oldie but a goodie. Great natural moisturizer and skin-identical ingredient that plays an important role in skin hydration and general skin health.
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| what‑it‑does | emollient |
A clear, colorless, almost odorless oil that spreads nicely and easily and gives a velvet dry skin feel. It is good friends with sunscreen agents and helps to solubilize them.
| what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient | emollient |
| irritancy, com. | 0, 1 |
An emollient and natural moisturizer that can be found also in the sebum (oily stuff our skin produces). It leaves a nice non-greasy, non-heavy feeling on the skin.
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| what‑it‑does | emollient |
A very common emollient that makes your skin feel nice and smooth. Comes from coconut oil and glycerin, it’s light-textured, clear, odorless and non-greasy.
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| what‑it‑does | emollient |
Macadamia nut oil - A highly emollient oil rich in oleic acid (50-67%) and a rare fatty acid called palmitoleic acid (12-25%). It gives the skin a soft, supple and "cushiony" feel.
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| what‑it‑does | emulsifying |
Part of Olivem 1000, a natural emulsifier duo that is known for forming biomimetic liquid crystal structures. It doubles as an active ingredient with barrier repairing and soothing properties.
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| what‑it‑does | emollient |
Marula Oil - a really nice nourishing and moisturizing oil that can improve skin hydration and smoothness and it can even reduce skin redness. It's a rich source of fatty acids (mainly oleic - 73%) and antioxidant vitamin E.
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| what‑it‑does | emulsifying | surfactant/cleansing |
A common little helper ingredient that helps water and oil to mix together, aka emulsifier.
| what‑it‑does | emollient | viscosity controlling | emulsifying | surfactant/cleansing |
| irritancy, com. | 1, 2 |
A super common multitasker ingredient that gives your skin a nice soft feel (emollient) and gives body to creams.
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| what‑it‑does | emulsifying |
| irritancy, com. | 0, 0-1 |
A mainly oil loving molecule that helps water and oil to mix nicely, aka emulsifier. In itself, it can create water-in-oil emulsions (when water droplets are dispersed in oil), but it is used mostly next to water-loving emulsifiers to create nice and smooth oil-in-water creams. It can also function as a wetting and dispersing agent helping insoluble particles such as color pigments
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| what‑it‑does | preservative |
Pretty much the current IT-preservative. It’s safe and gentle, and can be used up to 1% worldwide.
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| what‑it‑does | viscosity controlling |
| irritancy, com. | 0, 1 |
A handy white powder that magically converts a liquid into a nice gel formula.
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| what‑it‑does | buffering |
An alkaline (high pH, aka basic) material that is used to set the pH of the cosmetic formula to the right value.
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| what‑it‑does | viscosity controlling |
A helper ingredient that's good at stabilizing water-based formulas and also serves as a thickener.
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| what‑it‑does | cell-communicating ingredient |
An anti-aging peptide that's claimed to stimulate collagen production and inhibit collagen-eating enzymes called MMPs. A promising active that might reduce fine lines and wrinkles and may help dry and dull skin.
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| what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient |
A non-essential amino acid (important building block of collagen and elastin) that hydrates the skin.
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| what‑it‑does | moisturizer/humectant |
Glutamic acid is a little molecule and non-essential (our body can synthesize it) amino acid with the important job of being a neurotransmitter in the human body meaning that it helps your nervous system work correctly.
As for what it's doing in cosmetics, Glutamic acids' main thing (similar to other amino acids) is being a humectant moisturizer and skin-conditioning
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| what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient |
Serine is an amino acid that most often comes to the formula as part of a moisturizing complex. It's a non-essential amino acid (meaning that our body can synthesize it) and serves as a water-binding ingredient.In general, amino acids are great skincare ingredients that play an important role in proper skin hydration but there is not much info out there about what specifically serine can d
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| what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient | moisturizer/humectant |
An amino acid that is important in regulating the immune defense and inflammatory processes in the body. It's a skin moisturizer that might protect from skin infections.
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| what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient |
An amino acid (the building blocks of skin proteins, like collagen) that hydrates the skin and might help wound healing and improve wrinkles.
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| what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient |
An essential amino acid (important building block of collagen and elastin) that hydrates the skin.
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| what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient |
An amino acid that is one of the primary building blocks of hair keratin and skin collagen. It's a natural moisturizing factor and might also help to speed up wound healing.
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| what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient |
A non-essential amino acid (a building block of skin proteins like collagen or elastin) that hydrates the skin.
| what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient |
An essential amino acid (a building block of skin proteins like collagen) that is a skin hydrator.
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| what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient |
An essential amino acid that is used in the treatment of vitiligo.
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| what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient |
An essential amino acid that hydrates the skin and might be also a barrier repair ingredient.
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| what‑it‑does | cell-communicating ingredient |
A three amino acid peptide that is part of famous peptide duo, Matrixyl 3000. It's a type I collagen fragment that might be able to trick the skin to think that collagen broke down and it's time to create some new one.
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| what‑it‑does | cell-communicating ingredient |
The pal of Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in Matrixyl 3000. A four amino acid peptide that works by reducing the production of the signal molecule, inteleukin-6 (IL-6) that promotes inflammation in the skin.
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| what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient | moisturizer/humectant |
| irritancy, com. | 0, 0 |
It's the salt form of famous humectant and natural moisturizing factor, hyaluronic acid. It can bind huge amounts of water and it's pretty much the current IT-moisturizer.
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| what‑it‑does | cell-communicating ingredient | moisturizer/humectant |
A four amino acid peptide that is claimed to improve puffy eye bags via its anti-oedema and anti-glycation effects.To back this claim up, the manufacturer created an in-vivo study with 20 volunteers using 10% of EYESERYL (that comes down to 0.01% (!) of the pure peptide) and found that by day 15, 70% of the volunteers improved, while 95% of the volunteers improved by the end of the study (60 d
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| what‑it‑does | moisturizer/humectant | solvent |
| irritancy, com. | 0, 0 |
A common glycol that improves the freeze-thaw stability of products. It's also a solvent, humectant and to some extent a penetration enhancer.
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| what‑it‑does | antimicrobial/antibacterial |
| what‑it‑does | solvent | moisturizer/humectant |
A multi-functional, silky feeling helper ingredient that can do quite many things. It's used as an emulsion stabilizer, solvent, and a broad spectrum antimicrobial.
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| what‑it‑does | cell-communicating ingredient |
A four amino acid peptide that is claimed to mimic the youth hormone called thymopoietin. It works by compensating the loss of thymic factors that come with age and is thought to stimulate the skin immune defenses and to help the skin regenerate.
| what‑it‑does | moisturizer/humectant |
| what‑it‑does | preservative | antimicrobial/antibacterial |
A little helper ingredient that works as a preservative. It works against bacteria and some species of fungi and yeast.
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| what‑it‑does | emulsifying |
An ester coming from sorbitol and the fatty acids of olive oil. It often comes to the formula coupled with Cetearyl Olivate and the two together help water and oil to blend (emulsifier). It's a natural and Ecocert approved duo.
| what‑it‑does | antioxidant | moisturizer/humectant |
| what‑it‑does | cell-communicating ingredient |
Epidermal Growth Factor - a smallish protein that works as a potent cell signaling molecule. It stimulates cell proliferation, wound healing and skin renewal. Do not use if you have psoriasis or high skin cancer risk factors.
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| what‑it‑does | cell-communicating ingredient |
Sh-Oligopeptide-2 is also called Insulin-like growth factor 1 and it belongs to the same group of ingredients (Growth Factors) as its better-known sister, Epidermal Growth Factor or Sh-Oligopeptide-1.
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| what‑it‑does | cell-communicating ingredient |
Sh-Polypeptide-1 is a cell signaling protein also called Basic Fibroblast Growth Factor and is twin sister to Acidic Fibroblast Growth Factor.
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| what‑it‑does | cell-communicating ingredient |
Sh-Polypeptide-9 is a cell signaling protein also called Vascular Endothelial Growth Factor. As its name suggests, its main function is to stimulate the formation of blood vessels.
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| what‑it‑does | cell-communicating ingredient |
Sh-Polypeptide-11 is a medium sized cell signaling molecule also called Acidic Fibroblast Growth Factor. It belongs to the same group of ingredients (Growth Factors) as its better-known sister, Epidermal Growth Factor or Sh-Oligopeptide-1.
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| what‑it‑does | cell-communicating ingredient |
Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14 is the payload peptide (a short chain of amino acids) in the encapsulated copper peptide technology trade named X50 Antiaging. The delivery system (called The Cosmetic Drone) is a high-tech capsule where our peptide is wrapped in a biocompatible polymer shell (created from Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Polyvinyl Alcohol) and another peptide, which has an affi
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| what‑it‑does | cell-communicating ingredient |
Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate is the targeting peptide (a short chain of amino acids) that is part of the encapsulated copper peptide technology trade named X50 Antiaging.
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| what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient |
A non-essential amino acid (meaning that our body can produce it) that might be able to improve wrinkles combined with other amino acids, glycine and leucine.
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| what‑it‑does | emollient | solvent |
A volatile naturally derived vegetable alkane coming from renewable sources. It works as an emollient that gives smooth skin feel.
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| what‑it‑does | emollient |
A light emollient ester (C8-10 fatty acids connected to C12-18 fatty alcohols) that absorbs quickly and leaves a dry but silky finish on the skin. In terms of skin feel, it is similar to Dicaprylyl Carbonate, another commonly used light emollient.
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| what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient | emollient | surfactant/cleansing |
The famous omega-6 fatty acid, the mother of all ω-6 fatty acids in our body. It is a so-called polyunsaturated fatty acid meaning it has more than one (in this case two) double bonds and a somewhat kinky structure that makes LA and LA-rich oils a thin liquid.It is also an essential fatty acid meaning our body cannot synthesize
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| what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient | emollient | surfactant/cleansing | perfuming |
The famous omega-3 fatty acid, the mother of all ω-3 fatty acids in our body. Next to linoleic acid, it is the other essential fatty acid that our body cannot synthesize and we have to ingest it from our food.
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| what‑it‑does | emollient | emulsifying |
It's quite the multi-tasker: an emollient and water-binding ingredient but also an emulsifier and can be used for stabilization purposes. It's also often used to create liposomes.
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| what‑it‑does | moisturizer/humectant | solvent |
| irritancy, com. | 0, 1 |
An often used glycol that works as a solvent, humectant, penetration enhancer and also gives a good slip to the products.
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| what‑it‑does | viscosity controlling |
| what‑it‑does | buffering | moisturizer/humectant |
The sodium salt of lactic acid. It's a great skin moisturizer and also used to regulate the pH value of the cosmetic formula.
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| what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient | moisturizer/humectant |
| irritancy, com. | 0, 0 |
It's an important skin-identical ingredient and great natural moisturizer that helps the skin to hold onto water and stay nicely hydrated.
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| what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient | moisturizer/humectant |
PCA stands for Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid and though it might not sound like it, it is a thing that can be found naturally in our skin. In fact, after amino acids, it is the second biggest NMF component of the skin with 12% being PCA of the NMF composition of normal skin. So similar to other NMFs, it's a skin goodie that
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| what‑it‑does | emulsifying |
| irritancy, com. | 0, 1-2 |
A handy helper ingredient that helps water and oil to mix nicely together.
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| what‑it‑does | emulsifying | surfactant/cleansing |
| irritancy, com. | 0, 0 |
It's a common little helper ingredient that helps water and oil to mix together. Also, it can help to increase the solubility of some other ingredients in the formula.
| what‑it‑does | viscosity controlling |
A super commonly used thickener and emulsion stabilizer.
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| what‑it‑does | moisturizer/humectant |
| what‑it‑does | solvent |
A multi-functional helper ingredient that acts as a humectant and emollient. It's also a solvent and can boost the effectiveness of preservatives.
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| what‑it‑does | moisturizer/humectant | emollient |
A handy multi-tasking ingredient that gives the skin a nice, soft feel and also boosts the effectiveness of other preservatives.
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| what‑it‑does | antioxidant |
| irritancy, com. | 0-3, 0-3 |
Pure Vitamin E. Great antioxidant that gives significant photoprotection against UVB rays. Works in synergy with Vitamin C.
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| what‑it‑does | preservative |
A preservative that works mainly against fungi. Has to be combined with other preservatives.
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| what‑it‑does | perfuming | solvent |
A naturally occurring floral component with a delicate scent that can mask the odor of other raw materials. It also has remarkable antimicrobial and preservative boosting abilities.
| what‑it‑does | preservative |
A natural multi-functional ingredient that has emollient and moisturizing properties, can work as a co-emulsifier and has a strong antimicrobial activity.
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Polypeptide-9
Polypeptide-11