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SH-Oligopeptide-1

SH-Oligopeptide-1

Also-called-like-this: Epidermal Growth Factor, EGF, rh-Oligopeptide-1

Details

Sh-Oligopeptide-1 is the famous molecule, which is also called Epidermal Growth Factor or EGF. Chemically speaking, Growth Factors are largish peptides or smallish proteins, or to put it in another way, medium-length amino acid sequences (EGF consists of 53 amino acids).  Biologically speaking, Growth Factors are cellular signal molecules that can stimulate cell growth, proliferation, healing and/or differentiation. 

There are lots of Growth Factors and EGF is just one of them. The topic of "Growth Factors and skincare" is a big, confusing and controversial one and we will try our best to summarize the story for you, including the pros and the cons. 

EGF is a special snowflake when it comes to skincare as it was the first Growth Factor that made its way into cosmetic products and it is also the most common one. The American biochemist, Stanley Cohen discovered EGF and was awarded a Noble prize in 1986 for it. As the Noble prize may signify, the molecule is significant and powerful and directly stimulates the proliferation of epidermal cells. 

When it comes to Sh-Oligopeptide-1 in a cosmetic product, it has pretty well-established wound healing and skin renewal properties. It might even do more than that. According to a 2012 study on a serum containing barley bioengineered epidermal growth factor, "clinical evaluations showed statistically significant improvement in the appearance of fine lines and rhytids, skin texture, pore size, and various dyschromatic conditions apparent within the first month of use, and continuing improvement trends for the duration of the study" (which was 3 months).

This all sounds amazing, "give me some EGF Serum", we can hear you say! But as we wrote in the intro, the topic is complex and controversial so here are some of the questions that keep coming up around slathering EGF all over our face. 

The first and biggest concern is that if EGF is so good at stimulating cell proliferation, how does it relate to cancer? Is the definition of cancer not "cells proliferating out of control"?  Most experts agree on this answer: EGF is mitogenic (= stimulates cell proliferation) but not mutagenic (= does not alter the cell to make it cancerous)If you do not have cancer, you will not get cancer from EGF. However, if you have cancerous cells, EGF will help them to spread, just like it helps healthy cells. So if you have a lot of moles, excessive UV exposure in the past, or if you have any of the skin cancer risk factors, we suggest you should think twice about using EGF products. The same is true if you have psoriasis, a skin disease related to the abnormal growth of epidermal skin cells. You do not want to add fuel to the fire with EGF. 

Other (less serious) concerns are if EGF can properly penetrate the skin (as it is a medium-sized, polar molecule, so a special delivery system is probably needed), if it can affect collagen synthesis (or just works on the surface plumping up only the upmost layers of the skin) and if it has beneficial effects at all when used in isolation versus when used in a "conditioned media" that contains lots of growth factors resembling the synergistic balance found in the skin. 

Overall, our impression is that EGF is definitely a potent molecule. Some EGF products have a cult-like following adding anecdotal evidence to the clinical studies showing EGF has a beneficial effect on the skin. If you like experimenting, by all means, go ahead (unless you have psoriasis or high skin cancer risk factors), but if you are a better safe than sorry type, stick to daily SPF + a good retinoid product. This duo is still the golden standard of anti-aging.

Are you interested in Growth Factors and skincare? We have some more here:

Show me some proof

  • Schouest, Jonathan M., Teresa K. Luu, and Ronald L. Moy. "Improved texture and appearance of human facial skin after daily topical application of barley produced, synthetic, human-like epidermal growth factor (EGF) serum." Journal of drugs in dermatology: JDD 11.5 (2012): 613-620.
  • Pastore, Saveria, et al. "The epidermal growth factor receptor system in skin repair and inflammation." Journal of Investigative Dermatology 128.6 (2008): 1365-1374.
  • Brown, Gregory L., et al. "Enhancement of wound healing by topical treatment with epidermal growth factor." New England Journal of Medicine 321.2 (1989): 76-79.
  • Krane, Jeffrey F., et al. "Synergistic effects of epidermal growth factor (EGF) and insulin-like growth factor I/somatomedin C (IGF-I) on keratinocyte proliferation may be mediated by IGF-I transmodulation of the EGF receptor." Journal of investigative dermatology 96.4 (1991): 419-424.
  • Mehta, Rahul C., and Richard E. Fitzpatrick. "Endogenous growth factors as cosmeceuticals." Dermatologic therapy 20.5 (2007): 350-359.

Products with SH-Oligopeptide-1

Klairs Midnight Blue Youth Activating Drop RevivSerums Ultimate Serum Sidmool 'Min Jung Gi' Bio-Nano Egf Serum 2Sol Duna Tiger Repair Ampoule DNA renewal Dna Regeneration Serum Joanna Vargas Twilight Face Mask Manyo Factory 4Gf Eye Cream Cosmedix Cell Id Nutritive Defense Serum Cosmedix Elite Relief Soothing Peptide Gel Moonlab Gold Snail Wrinkle Free Cream Cosmedix Radiance Age Restorative Serum Isntree Egf Repair Ampule Peter Thomas Roth Firmx 360 Eye Renewal Purito Pure Hyaluronic Acid 90 Serum Purito Pure Vitamin C Serum Arcona G Factor Skin Renewal Serum Bioeffect 30 Day Treatment Bioeffect EGF Serum Secret Key Starting Treatment Essence Tosowoong Green Tea Natural Pure Essence Tosowoong Propolis Brightening Essence Acure Radically Rejuvenating Whipped Night Cream Acure Radically Rejuvenating Whipped Night Cream Benton Snail Bee High Content Essence Benton Snail Bee High Content Skin Nuface 24K Gel Primer Nuface Firm 24K Gold Gel Primer SIRCUITĀ® Cosmeceuticals O.M.G.+ TIA'M My Signature Vita B5 Toner Yuri Pibu Cellum Amaid Ampoule Bioeffect 30 Day Treatment Bioeffect Body Intensive Bioeffect EFG Day Serum Kypris Moonlight Catalyst Skin Actives Redness Reduction Serum Drunk Elephant Protiniā„¢ Polypeptide Cream Elizavecca Milky Piggy Egf Elastic Retinol Cream Graymelin Centella 50 Regeneration Toner Isntree Egf Repair Cream Isntree Egf Repair Cream Mizon Peptide 500 Secret Key Snail Repairing Essence Sidmool Royal Honey Peptide Deep Moisture Sleeping Pack BONAJOUR Egf Time Recovery Micro Essence Bioeffect EFG Eye Serum ECLADO Cell Magic Skin Lotion Pureforet Centella Multi Cream Pureforet Centella Multi Lotion Revolution Skincare Conditioning Serum - Egf Serum Sidmool Dr. Galatok Real Peptide Barrier Moisture Cream