

Skinfix
Barrier+ Triple Lipid-peptide Cream
Uploaded on 01/06/2022
This facial cream is clinically proven to visibly increase softness
and radiance and provides moisturising nourishment for hydrated, healthy-looking skin.
Regaliz
Truderma Moisturizing Lotion
Uploaded on 10/13/2020
Intense emollient care enriched with nano-liposomal complex.
Ingredients
what‑it‑does | solvent |
Normal (well kind of - it's purified and deionized) water. Usually the main solvent in cosmetic products.
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what‑it‑does | emulsifying |
Part of Olivem 1000, a natural emulsifier duo that is known for forming biomimetic liquid crystal structures. It doubles as an active ingredient with barrier repairing and soothing properties.
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what‑it‑does | emulsifying |
An ester coming from sorbitol and the fatty acids of olive oil. It often comes to the formula coupled with Cetearyl Olivate and the two together help water and oil to blend (emulsifier). It's a natural and Ecocert approved duo.
what‑it‑does | viscosity controlling |
A big polymer (a molecule from repeated subunits) with crazy water binding abilities. Used as a thickening and emulsion stabilizing agent.
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what‑it‑does | emollient | solvent |
It's a super commonly used water-thin volatile silicone that gives skin and hair a silky, smooth feel.
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what‑it‑does | emulsifying | surfactant/cleansing |
what‑it‑does | emulsifying |
A silicone emulsifier that helps to create water in silicone emulsions.
what‑it‑does | emollient |
Shea butter that's considered to be a magic moisturizer and emollient. It is also soothing and rich in antioxidants.
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what‑it‑does | emulsifying |
what‑it‑does | emollient | viscosity controlling | emulsifying | surfactant/cleansing |
irritancy, com. | 1, 2 |
A super common multitasker ingredient that gives your skin a nice soft feel (emollient) and gives body to creams.
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what‑it‑does | emollient |
irritancy, com. | 0, 0 |
A white, waxy emollient that gives "body" to skincare formulas. Comes from coconut or palm kernel oil.
what‑it‑does | emulsifying |
A creamy solid that helps water and oil to mix, aka emulsifier. Its solid, wax-like nature is useful for oil-based formulas where some rigidity is needed.
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what‑it‑does | emulsifying |
irritancy, com. | 0, 3 |
A mainly oil-loving, vegetable raw material based ingredient that helps water and oil to mix together, aka emulsifier. It can also function as a wetting and dispersing agent helping insoluble particles such as color pigments or inorganic sunscreens (zinc/titanium dioxide) to disperse nice and even in liquids.
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what‑it‑does | soothing | moisturizer/humectant |
irritancy, com. | 0, 0 |
Pro-Vitamin B5 is a goodie that moisturises the skin, has anti-inflammatory, skin protecting and wound healing properties.
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what‑it‑does | emollient |
irritancy, com. | 0, 1 |
A very common silicone that gives both skin and hair a silky smooth feel. It also forms a protective barrier on the skin and fills in fine lines. Also used for scar treatment.
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what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient | moisturizer/humectant |
irritancy, com. | 0, 0 |
A real oldie but a goodie. Great natural moisturizer and skin-identical ingredient that plays an important role in skin hydration and general skin health.
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what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient |
Ceramides make up 50% of the goopy stuff that's between our skin cells and play a super important role in having a healthy skin barrier and keeping the skin hydrated.
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what‑it‑does | emollient | emulsifying |
It's the chemically chopped up version of normal lecithin. Most often it's used to create liposomes and to coat and stabilize some other ingredient.
what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient | emollient |
irritancy, com. | 0, 0 |
It's one of the important lipids that can be found naturally in the outer layer of the skin. About 25% of the goopy stuff between our skin cells consists of cholesterol.
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what‑it‑does | surfactant/cleansing | emulsifying |
what‑it‑does | emollient | viscosity controlling |
irritancy, com. | 2, 2 |
A fatty (the good, non-drying kind of) alcohol that makes your skin feel smooth and nice (emollient), helps to thicken up products and also helps water and oil to blend (emulsifier).
what‑it‑does | surfactant/cleansing | emulsifying |
irritancy, com. | 0, 0 |
what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient |
Ceramides get quite a lot of hype recently and good news: there is a reason for that. But before we go into the details, let's just quickly define what the heck ceramides are:
They are waxy lipids that can be found naturally in the outer layer of the skin (called stratum corneum - SC).
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what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient |
A type of ceramide that can be found naturally in the upper layer of the skin. Ceramides make up 50% of the goopy stuff that's between our skin cells and play a super important role in having a healthy skin barrier and keeping the skin hydrated.
We have written way more about ceramides at ceramide 1, so click here to know more.
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what‑it‑does | moisturizer/humectant | solvent |
irritancy, com. | 0, 0 |
A common glycol that improves the freeze-thaw stability of products. It's also a solvent, humectant and to some extent a penetration enhancer.
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what‑it‑does | soothing |
what‑it‑does | emollient | soothing |
what‑it‑does | emollient | soothing |
what‑it‑does | antimicrobial/antibacterial | soothing |
what‑it‑does | soothing | emollient |
Cucumber is a nice, non-irritating plant extract that’s known for it’s soothing and emollient properties.
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what‑it‑does | perfuming |
Mountain Arnica Extract - Most famously used to treat bruisings, though the scientific basis for its effectiveness is questionable.
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what‑it‑does | moisturizer/humectant |
what‑it‑does | moisturizer/humectant |
A type of sugar that has water-binding properties and helps to keep your skin hydrated.
what‑it‑does | moisturizer/humectant |
what‑it‑does | buffering |
what‑it‑does | moisturizer/humectant |
A sugar beet derived amino acid derivative with nice skin protection and moisturization properties. Its special thing is being an osmolyte, a molecule that helps to control cell-water balance.
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what‑it‑does | moisturizer/humectant |
A natural moisturizer that can bind to the skin stronger and longer than other similar ingredients so it can keep the skin hydrated longer than usual.
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what‑it‑does | buffering |
An AHA that comes from citrus fruits. It is usually used as a helper ingredient to adjust the pH of the formula.
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what‑it‑does | chelating | buffering |
A helper ingredient that is used to adjust the pH of the product. Also helps to keep products stay nice longer by neutralizing the metal ions in the formula.
what‑it‑does | emollient |
A very common emollient that makes your skin feel nice and smooth. Comes from coconut oil and glycerin, it’s light-textured, clear, odorless and non-greasy.
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what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient | moisturizer/humectant |
irritancy, com. | 0, 0 |
It's the salt form of famous humectant and natural moisturizing factor, hyaluronic acid. It can bind huge amounts of water and it's pretty much the current IT-moisturizer.
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what‑it‑does | preservative | perfuming | solvent | viscosity controlling |
It's one of those things that help your cosmetics not to go wrong too soon, aka a preservative. It can be naturally found in fruits and teas but can also be made synthetically.
No matter the origin, in small amounts (up to 1%) it’s a nice, gentle preservative.
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what‑it‑does | antioxidant | preservative |
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate is an antioxidant molecule used in small amounts (less than 0.8%) to help products stay nice longer. More specifically, it is great at preventing discoloration or other types of oxidative degradation.
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what‑it‑does | preservative |
what‑it‑does | emollient |
what‑it‑does | emollient |
Cetyl Lactate is a multipurpose emollient that gives the formula a nice slip and makes your skin silky and smooth. It is also claimed to reduce tackiness and greasiness in the formulation.
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what‑it‑does | emollient |
A coconut or palm kernel oil derived, fast spreading emollient liquid that makes your skin feel nice and smooth.
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what‑it‑does | solvent | moisturizer/humectant |
A natural corn sugar derived glycol. It can be used to improve skin moisturization, as a solvent, to boost preservative efficacy or to influence the sensory properties of the end formula.
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what‑it‑does | emollient | viscosity controlling |
what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient | emollient |
Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters is the major component of a skin surface lipid mimetic mixture trade named L22. So what the heck is a skin surface lipid mimetic mixture? Let's start with skin surface lipids (SLSs):
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what‑it‑does | emollient | emulsifying |
Glyceryl stearate citrate is similar to the super common skincare ingredient glyceryl stearate, and is similarly used to help combine waters and oils (emulsifier) and to make your skin feel nice and soft (emollient).
The main difference between glyceryl stearate citrate and its cousin glyceryl stearate is that this one has a citric acid molecule also attached to its glycerin.
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what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient | emollient | emulsifying |
irritancy, com. | 0, 2 |
A fatty acid that can be found naturally in the skin. It can make the skin feel nice and smooth in moisturizers (emollient) or it can act as a foam building cleansing agent in cleansers.
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what‑it‑does | preservative |
Pretty much the current IT-preservative. It’s safe and gentle, and can be used up to 1% worldwide.
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what‑it‑does | emollient | viscosity controlling |
Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer is a slightly tacky, glossy emollient that is commonly used in lip products as it is soluble in lip product's favorite oil, castor oil;
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what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient | antioxidant | emollient |
Squalene is an oily liquid that originally comes from shark liver but luckily it can also be found in a couple of plant oils. Olive (0.6%), peanut (0.1%) and pumpkin (0.35%) oils contain it, though not in huge amounts. What contains more of it, is the sebum (the oily stuff) that our skin produces.
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what‑it‑does | viscosity controlling |
A super commonly used thickener and emulsion stabilizer.
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what‑it‑does | moisturizer/humectant | viscosity controlling |
The extract of red seaweed that has nice film-forming, skin smoothing and moisturizing properties.
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There is not much information about Phytosteryl Sunflowerseedate on its own out there, but it usually comes to the formula combined with Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer and Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides.
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what‑it‑does | solvent | moisturizer/humectant |
A multi-functional, silky feeling helper ingredient that can do quite many things. It's used as an emulsion stabilizer, solvent, and a broad spectrum antimicrobial.
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what‑it‑does | preservative |
A not so strong preservative that doesn’t really work against bacteria, but more against mold and yeast.
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what‑it‑does | emollient | viscosity controlling |
Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides is a blend of fatty acid mono and diesters (kind of like an oil molecule but not with three but only one or two fatty acid chains on the glycerin) that exists in lots of versions. It can be a consistency-giving wax (think something like glyceryl stearate), or it can be a rich jelly emollient that acts as a petrolatum alternative.
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what‑it‑does | soothing | emollient |
Sunflower seed extract that contains a bunch of skin goodies, including anti-inflammatory minerals, moisturizing and soothing amino acids, sugars and proteins as well as antioxidant polyphenol derivatives.
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what‑it‑does | preservative |
It can boost the effectiveness of phenoxyethanol (and other preservatives) and as an added bonus it feels nice on the skin too.
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what‑it‑does | emollient | skin-identical ingredient |
Phytosteryl Macadamiate is the combination of phytosterol and fatty acids coming from Macadamia oil. It is a botanical version of cholesteryl esters found in skin surface lipids.
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what‑it‑does | soothing | moisturizer/humectant |
The famous aloe vera. A great moisturizer and anti-inflammatory ingredient that also helps wound healing and skin regeneration.
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what‑it‑does | chelating |
A helper ingredient that helps to neutralize the metal ions in the formula (they usually come from water) so it stays nice longer.
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what‑it‑does | antioxidant |
irritancy, com. | 0-3, 0-3 |
Pure Vitamin E. Great antioxidant that gives significant photoprotection against UVB rays. Works in synergy with Vitamin C.
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what‑it‑does | antioxidant | soothing | antimicrobial/antibacterial |
Rosemary leaf extract - Its main active is rosmarinic acid, a potent antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory. It has also anti-bacterial, astringent and toning properties.
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what‑it‑does | exfoliant | chelating |
A next generation AHA, a so-called PHA that gently exfoliates skin without irritation. It also moisturizes and helps the skin barrier. It also has antioxidant properties.
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what‑it‑does | preservative |
A preservative that works mainly against fungi. Has to be combined with other preservatives.
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what‑it‑does | emulsifying |
A helper ingredient that's used as a co-emulsifier and as a stabilization agent for foams.
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what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient | cell-communicating ingredient | anti-acne | antimicrobial/antibacterial |
A type of lipid that can be found naturally in the skin. Has antimicrobial and cell-communicating properties and is considered to be part of the skin's natural defence system.
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what‑it‑does | viscosity controlling |
irritancy, com. | 0, 1 |
A handy white powder that magically converts a liquid into a nice gel formula.
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