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SU:M37 Losec Summa Elixir Foam Cleanser

Losec Summa Elixir Foam Cleanser

This advanced, anti-aging formula of 24K pure gold purifies and comforts the skin and has a deep cleansing effect that completely cleanses within pores.
Uploaded by: kluvsorange on

Ingredients overview

Water, Lauric Acid, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Potassium Hydroxide, Myristic Acid, Glycerin, Acrylates Copolymer, Alcohol Denat, Butylene Glycol, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Acrylates/​C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Peel Oil, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Elettaria Cardamomum Seed Oil, Tetrasodium EDTA, Vaccinium Angustifolium (Blueberry) Fruit Extract, Mica, Titanium Dioxide(Ci 77891), Cananga Odorata Flower Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, Vinegar, Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract, Wine Extract, Caprylic/​Capric Triglyceride, Azadirachta Indica Leaf Extract, Artemisia Annua Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Pogostemon Cablin Oil, Iron Oxides(Ci 77491), Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Flower Oil, Jasminum Sambac (Jasmine) Flower Extract, Saccharomyces/​Grape Ferment Extract, Lactobacillus/​Wasabia Japonica Root Ferment Extract, Boswellia Serrata Resin Extract, Saccharomyces/​Barley Seed Ferment Filtrate, Lactobacillus/​Pear Juice Ferment Filtrate, Monascus/​Rice Ferment, Saccharomyces/​Potato Extract Ferment Filtrate, Lactobacillus/​Water Hyacinth Ferment, Lactobacillus/​Soybean Ferment Extract, Saccharomyces/​Xylinum/​Black Tea Ferment, Lactobacillus/​Ginseng Root Ferment Filtrate, Lactobacillus/​Rye Flour Ferment, Lactobacillus/​Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract, Eugenia Caryophyllus (Clove) Flower Extract, Yeast Ferment Extract, Nigella Sativa Seed Extract, Coriandrum Sativum (Coriander) Fruit/​Leaf Extract, Illicium Verum (Anise) Fruit Extract, Fraxinus Excelsior Leaf Extract, Hypericum Perforatum Flower/​Leaf/​Stem Extract, Cymbopogon Citratus Extract, Carum Petroselinum (Parsley) Extract, Marrubium Vulgare Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower Extract, Foeniculum Vulgare (Fennel) Fruit Extract, Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Extract, Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract, Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Extract, Honey Extract, Valeriana Officinalis Rhizome/​Root Extract, Gold, Spinacia Oleracea (Spinach) Leaf Extract, Prunus Salicina Fruit Extract, Morus Bombycis Leaf Extract, Akebia Quinata Extract, Schizonepeta Tenuifolia Extract, Crataegus Cuneata Fruit Extract, Camellia Japonica Leaf Extract, Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract, Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit Extract, Citrullus Lanatus (Watermelon) Fruit Extract, Brassica Rapa (Turnip) Leaf Extract, Ginkgo Biloba Nut Extract, Sasa Veitchii Leaf Extract, Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract, Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Platycodon Grandiflorum Root Extract, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Extract, Rehmannia Glutinosa Root Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract, Cassia Obtusifolia Seed Extract, Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract, Taraxacum Officinale (Dandelion) Leaf Extract, Undaria Pinnatifida Extract, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Flower Extract, Allium Cepa (Onion) Bulb Extract, Allium Sativum (Garlic) Bulb Extract, Grifola Frondosa Fruiting Body Extract, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Fruit Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Beta Vulgaris (Beet) Root Extract, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract, Codonopsis Lanceolata Root Extract, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Extract, Acorus Calamus Root Extract, Citrus Junos Fruit Extract, Hemerocallis Fulva Flower Extract, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Brassica Oleracea Capitata (Cabbage) Leaf Extract, Cichorium Intybus (Chicory) Root Extract, Trichosanthes Kirilowii Root Extract, Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Fruit Extract, Musa Sapientum (Banana) Fruit Extract, Phaseolus Angularis Seed Extract, Perilla Frutescens Leaf Extract, Ficus Carica (Fig) Fruit Extract, Diospyros Kaki Fruit Extract, Eriobotrya Japonica Leaf Extract, Ipomoea Batatas Root Extract, Ocimum Basilicum (Basil) Leaf Extract, Raphanus Sativus (Radish) Root Extract, Melissa Officinalis Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Root Extract, Panicum Miliaceum (Millet) Seed Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Thymus Vulgaris (Thyme) Leaf Extract, Actinidia Polygama Fruit Extract, Acer Palmatum Leaf Extract, Geranium Robertianum Extract, Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Flower/​Leaf/​Stem Extract, Prunus Persica (Peach) Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Leaf Extract, Chaenomeles Sinensis Fruit Extract, Lippia Citriodora Leaf Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Lentinus Edodes Extract, Plantago Major Seed Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Equisetum Arvense Extract, Glechoma Hederacea Extract, Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract

Highlights

Key Ingredients

Antioxidant: Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Wine Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Lactobacillus/​Wasabia Japonica Root Ferment Extract, Monascus/​Rice Ferment, Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract, Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Extract, Prunus Salicina Fruit Extract, Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract, Citrullus Lanatus (Watermelon) Fruit Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Platycodon Grandiflorum Root Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract, Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Beta Vulgaris (Beet) Root Extract, Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract, Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Fruit Extract, Phaseolus Angularis Seed Extract, Acer Palmatum Leaf Extract, Chaenomeles Sinensis Fruit Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract

Skim through

Ingredient name what-it-does irr., com. ID-Rating
Water solvent
Lauric Acid anti-acne, surfactant/​cleansing, emulsifying 1, 4 goodie
Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate surfactant/​cleansing
Potassium Hydroxide buffering
Myristic Acid surfactant/​cleansing, emulsifying, perfuming 0, 3
Glycerin skin-identical ingredient, moisturizer/​humectant 0, 0 superstar
Acrylates Copolymer viscosity controlling
Alcohol Denat antimicrobial/​antibacterial, solvent, viscosity controlling icky
Butylene Glycol moisturizer/​humectant, solvent 0, 1
Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil perfuming icky
1,2-Hexanediol solvent
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer viscosity controlling
Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Peel Oil perfuming icky
Rosa Damascena Flower Oil antioxidant, perfuming, antimicrobial/​antibacterial icky
Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract
Elettaria Cardamomum Seed Oil perfuming
Tetrasodium EDTA chelating
Vaccinium Angustifolium (Blueberry) Fruit Extract soothing
Mica colorant
Titanium Dioxide(Ci 77891) colorant 0, 0
Cananga Odorata Flower Oil perfuming icky
Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil antimicrobial/​antibacterial, perfuming icky
Vinegar
Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract moisturizer/​humectant
Wine Extract antioxidant
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride emollient
Azadirachta Indica Leaf Extract
Artemisia Annua Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract antioxidant, soothing goodie
Pogostemon Cablin Oil perfuming
Iron Oxides(Ci 77491) colorant 0, 0
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Flower Oil
Jasminum Sambac (Jasmine) Flower Extract perfuming
Saccharomyces/Grape Ferment Extract
Lactobacillus/Wasabia Japonica Root Ferment Extract antioxidant
Boswellia Serrata Resin Extract
Saccharomyces/Barley Seed Ferment Filtrate moisturizer/​humectant
Lactobacillus/Pear Juice Ferment Filtrate
Monascus/Rice Ferment antioxidant
Saccharomyces/Potato Extract Ferment Filtrate moisturizer/​humectant
Lactobacillus/Water Hyacinth Ferment
Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract
Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment
Lactobacillus/Ginseng Root Ferment Filtrate
Lactobacillus/Rye Flour Ferment
Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract exfoliant goodie
Eugenia Caryophyllus (Clove) Flower Extract
Yeast Ferment Extract
Nigella Sativa Seed Extract perfuming
Coriandrum Sativum (Coriander) Fruit/Leaf Extract
Illicium Verum (Anise) Fruit Extract perfuming
Fraxinus Excelsior Leaf Extract
Hypericum Perforatum Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Cymbopogon Citratus Extract
Carum Petroselinum (Parsley) Extract
Marrubium Vulgare Extract soothing
Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower Extract surfactant/​cleansing
Foeniculum Vulgare (Fennel) Fruit Extract emollient, soothing
Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Extract surfactant/​cleansing
Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root Extract antioxidant, soothing goodie
Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Extract antimicrobial/​antibacterial, antioxidant, emollient, moisturizer/​humectant, perfuming
Honey Extract moisturizer/​humectant goodie
Valeriana Officinalis Rhizome/Root Extract soothing
Gold colorant
Spinacia Oleracea (Spinach) Leaf Extract
Prunus Salicina Fruit Extract antioxidant
Morus Bombycis Leaf Extract
Akebia Quinata Extract
Schizonepeta Tenuifolia Extract
Crataegus Cuneata Fruit Extract
Camellia Japonica Leaf Extract
Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract skin brightening, antioxidant
Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit Extract
Citrullus Lanatus (Watermelon) Fruit Extract antioxidant goodie
Brassica Rapa (Turnip) Leaf Extract
Ginkgo Biloba Nut Extract
Sasa Veitchii Leaf Extract
Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract
Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Flower Extract soothing, antimicrobial/​antibacterial goodie
Centella Asiatica Extract soothing, antioxidant, moisturizer/​humectant goodie
Platycodon Grandiflorum Root Extract antioxidant
Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Extract soothing
Rehmannia Glutinosa Root Extract
Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract antioxidant, emollient goodie
Cassia Obtusifolia Seed Extract
Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract antioxidant
Taraxacum Officinale (Dandelion) Leaf Extract
Undaria Pinnatifida Extract
Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Flower Extract
Allium Cepa (Onion) Bulb Extract antimicrobial/​antibacterial
Allium Sativum (Garlic) Bulb Extract
Grifola Frondosa Fruiting Body Extract emollient
Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Fruit Extract
Portulaca Oleracea Extract soothing, antioxidant goodie
Beta Vulgaris (Beet) Root Extract antioxidant, moisturizer/​humectant goodie
Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract soothing, emollient goodie
Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract antioxidant, soothing, skin brightening, perfuming goodie
Codonopsis Lanceolata Root Extract
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Extract
Acorus Calamus Root Extract perfuming
Citrus Junos Fruit Extract
Hemerocallis Fulva Flower Extract
Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract moisturizer/​humectant goodie
Brassica Oleracea Capitata (Cabbage) Leaf Extract
Cichorium Intybus (Chicory) Root Extract
Trichosanthes Kirilowii Root Extract
Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Fruit Extract antioxidant, soothing goodie
Musa Sapientum (Banana) Fruit Extract
Phaseolus Angularis Seed Extract antioxidant, emollient, moisturizer/​humectant
Perilla Frutescens Leaf Extract
Ficus Carica (Fig) Fruit Extract moisturizer/​humectant
Diospyros Kaki Fruit Extract
Eriobotrya Japonica Leaf Extract
Ipomoea Batatas Root Extract
Ocimum Basilicum (Basil) Leaf Extract
Raphanus Sativus (Radish) Root Extract
Melissa Officinalis Extract
Nelumbo Nucifera Root Extract
Panicum Miliaceum (Millet) Seed Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract soothing, skin brightening superstar
Thymus Vulgaris (Thyme) Leaf Extract
Actinidia Polygama Fruit Extract
Acer Palmatum Leaf Extract antioxidant
Geranium Robertianum Extract
Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract perfuming
Prunus Persica (Peach) Fruit Extract moisturizer/​humectant
Citrus Aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Leaf Extract
Chaenomeles Sinensis Fruit Extract antioxidant, emollient, moisturizer/​humectant
Lippia Citriodora Leaf Extract perfuming
Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract antioxidant, soothing, antimicrobial/​antibacterial goodie
Lentinus Edodes Extract
Plantago Major Seed Extract
Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract soothing, antioxidant 0, 0 goodie
Equisetum Arvense Extract soothing, emollient
Glechoma Hederacea Extract
Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract
Houttuynia Cordata Extract antioxidant, soothing goodie

SU:M37 Losec Summa Elixir Foam Cleanser
Ingredients explained

Also-called: Aqua | What-it-does: solvent

Good old water, aka H2O. The most common skincare ingredient of all. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product. 

It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water. 

Lauric Acid - goodie
What-it-does: anti-acne, surfactant/cleansing, emulsifying | Irritancy: 1 | Comedogenicity: 4

A 12 carbon length fatty acid that can be found naturally in coconut milk, coconut oil, laurel oil, and palm kernel oil. It's also in breast milk. As a skincare ingredient, it can be used as an emulsifier or as a cleansing agent.

What's more, there is emerging research about lauric acid being a good anti-acne ingredient.  A 2009 study found that the lowest concentration to prevent evil acne-causing P. acnes growth of lauric acid is over 15 times lower than that of gold standard anti-acne ingredient benzoyl peroxide.

What-it-does: surfactant/cleansing

A soft, mild cleansing agent with amphoteric structure meaning that its head contains both a positively and a negatively charged part (surfactants are most commonly anionic meaning their head has a negative charge).  It also has great foaming abilities and is recommended for baby products and other non-irritating cleansers.

What-it-does: buffering

It's a very alkaline stuff that helps to set the pH of the cosmetic formula to be just right. It's similar to the more often used sodium hydroxide and pretty much the same of what we wrote there applies here too. 

What-it-does: surfactant/cleansing, emulsifying, perfuming | Irritancy: 0 | Comedogenicity: 3

A 14 carbon length fatty acid that can be naturally found in nutmeg, palm kernel oil, coconut oil and butter fat. It's used as a foam building cleansing agent. Paula Begoun writes that it can be a bit drying to the skin. 

Glycerin - superstar
Also-called: Glycerol | What-it-does: skin-identical ingredient, moisturizer/humectant | Irritancy: 0 | Comedogenicity: 0
  • A natural moisturizer that’s also in our skin
  • A super common, safe, effective and cheap molecule used for more than 50 years
  • Not only a simple moisturizer but knows much more: keeps the skin lipids between our skin cells in a healthy (liquid crystal) state, protects against irritation, helps to restore barrier
  • Effective from as low as 3% with even more benefits for dry skin at higher concentrations up to 20-40%
  • High-glycerin moisturizers are awesome for treating severely dry skin
Read all the geeky details about Glycerin here >>

What-it-does: viscosity controlling

A big polymer molecule that has a bunch of different versions and thus different uses. It can act as a film former,  as thickening agent, or it can increase the water-resistance in sunscreens. It is also used to entrap pigments/inorganic sunscreens within a micron size matrix for even coverage and easy application.

  • It's a super common and super debated skincare ingredient
  • It has several benefits: great solvent, penetration enhancer, creates cosmetically elegant, light formulas, great astringent and antimicrobial
  • It can be very drying if it's in the first few ingredients on an ingredient list
  • Some experts even think that regular exposure to alcohol damages skin barrier and causes inflammation though it's a debated opinion (read more in geeky details tab)
Read all the geeky details about Alcohol Denat. here >>

What-it-does: moisturizer/humectant, solvent | Irritancy: 0 | Comedogenicity: 1

Butylene glycol, or let’s just call it BG, is a multi-tasking colorless, syrupy liquid. It’s a great pick for creating a nice feeling product.  

BG’s main job is usually to be a solvent for the other ingredients. Other tasks include helping the product to absorb faster and deeper into the skin (penetration enhancer), making the product spread nicely over the skin (slip agent), and attracting water (humectant) into the skin.

Also-called: Bergamot Fruit Oil | What-it-does: perfuming

The essential oil coming from the fruit (probably the rind) of the bergamot orange.  It's a common top note in perfumes and contains (among others) fragrant compounds limonene (37%), linalyl acetate (30%) and linalool (8.8%). 

A well-known issue with bergamot oil (apart from the fragrance allergens) is that it contains phototoxic compounds called furanocoumarins, but more and more commonly furanocoumarin-free versions are used in cosmetic products. Still, if you have sensitive skin and prefer fragrance-free products, bergamot oil is not for you.

What-it-does: solvent

A really multi-functional helper ingredient that can do several things in a skincare product: it can bring a soft and pleasant feel to the formula, it can act as a humectant and emollient, it can be a solvent for some other ingredients (for example it can help to stabilize perfumes in watery products) and it can also help to disperse pigments more evenly in makeup products. And that is still not all: it can also boost the antimicrobial activity of preservatives

Though its long name does not reveal it, this polymer molecule (big molecule from repeated subunits or monomers) is a relative to the super common, water-loving thickener, Carbomer. Both of them are big molecules that contain acrylic acid units, but Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer also contains some other monomers that are hydrophobic, i.e. water-hating. 

This means that our molecule is part water- and part oil-loving, so it not only works as a thickener but also as an emulsion stabilizer. It is very common in gel-type formulas that also contain an oil-phase as well as in cleansers as it also works with most cleansing agents (unlike a lot of other thickeners). 

Also-called: Grapefruit Peel Oil | What-it-does: perfuming

The essential oil coming from the rind of the grapefruit. In general, the main component of citrus peel oils is limonene (86-95% for grapefruit peel), a super common fragrant ingredient that makes everything smell nice (but counts as a frequent skin sensitizer).

Other than that, citrus peel also contains the problematic compound called furanocoumarin that makes them mildly phototoxic. In general, the more sour-bitter the fruit, the more problematic it is regarding phototoxicity: orange and clementine peel contain less of it while lemon, grapefruit, and bergamot contain some more. Be careful with it if it is in a product for daytime use.  

Also-called: Damask Rose Flower Oil | What-it-does: antioxidant, perfuming, antimicrobial/antibacterial

We are big fans of all kinds of roses as ornamental plants but when it comes to skincare, it is a mixed bag. Before we list out the good and the not so good, here is an interesting thing. 

The oil content in rose is very, very low so distilling rose essential oil requires huge amounts of rose flowers. It has such a wonderful scent that there are no comparable synthetic alternatives. You can probably guess that this means rose essential oil is expensive.... very very expensive

Also-called: Acai Extract

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

What-it-does: perfuming

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

What-it-does: chelating

A handy helper ingredient that helps products to remain nice and stable for a longer time. It does so by neutralizing the metal ions in the formula (that usually get into there from water) that would otherwise cause some not so nice changes.

Also-called: Blueberry Extract | What-it-does: soothing

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Also-called: CI 77019 | What-it-does: colorant

A super versatile and common mineral powder that comes in different particle sizes. It is a multi-tasker used to improve skin feel, increase product slip, give the product light-reflecting properties, enhance skin adhesion or serve as an anti-caking agent.

It is also the most commonly used "base" material for layered composite pigments such as pearl-effect pigments. In this case, mica is coated with one or more metal oxides (most commonly titanium dioxide) to achieve pearl effect via the physical phenomenon known as interference. 

Also-called: Titanium Dioxide/Ci 77891;Ci 77891 | What-it-does: colorant | Irritancy: 0 | Comedogenicity: 0

Ci 77891 is the color code of titanium dioxide. It's a white pigment with great color consistency and dispersibility.

Also-called: Ylang Ylang Essential Oil | What-it-does: perfuming

Sweet, exotic and floral, it’ no surprise that Ylang Ylang is a popular essential oil. It is coming from the yellow, fragrant flowers of the Cananga tree native to tropical Asia and, similar to other essential oils, it is a chemically complex mixture with several pros and cons. 

Unfortunately, these are a bit tricky to pin down as the composition varies largely depending on where it is sourced, how the oil is extracted and the grade of it that is used in the product, but we’ll do our best!

Also-called: Lavender Essential Oil | What-it-does: antimicrobial/antibacterial, perfuming

We have to start by writing how fascinated we are by the amazing lavender fields of Provance and we do love pretty much everything about lavender: its look, its color, its scent.... but, when it comes to skincare, lavender is a questionable ingredient that you probably do not want in your skincare products.

First, let us start with the pros: it has a lovely scent, so no wonder that it is popular as a fragrance ingredient in natural products wanting to be free from synthetic fragrances but still wanting to smell nice. The scent of lavender is famous for having calming and relaxing properties and some smallish scientific studies do support that. Inhaled volatile compounds seem to have a soothing effect on the central nervous system and studies have shown that lavender aromatherapy can improve patient's anxiety and experience in hospitals.   

Also-called: Acetum

The thing that you put on your salad with some olive oil. But in a more scientific sense vinegar is usually a 5% solution of acetic acid. It's used in cosmetic products to adjust pH. Larg amounts of vinegar on the skin could be irritating and drying.

What-it-does: moisturizer/humectant

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

What-it-does: antioxidant

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

What-it-does: emollient

A super common emollient that makes your skin feel nice and smooth. It comes from coconut oil and glycerin, it’s light-textured, clear, odorless and non-greasy. It’s a nice ingredient that just feels good on the skin, is super well tolerated by every skin type and easy to formulate with. No wonder it’s popular. 

Also-called: Neem Leaf Extract

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Also-called: Green Tea | What-it-does: antioxidant, soothing
  • Green tea is one of the most researched natural ingredients
  • The active parts are called polyphenols, or more precisely catechins (EGCG being the most abundant and most active catechin)
  • There can be huge quality differences between green tea extracts. The good ones contain 50-90% catechins (and often make the product brown and give it a distinctive smell)
  • Green tea is proven to be a great antioxidant, UV protectant, anti-inflammatory, anticarcinogenic and antimicrobial
  • Because of these awesome properties green tea is a great choice for anti-aging and also for skin diseases including rosacea, acne and atopic dermatitis
Read all the geeky details about Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract here >>

Also-called: Patchouli Essential Oil;Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil | What-it-does: perfuming

If you are into perfumes, you must know patchouli as an important essential oil in the perfume industry. It boasts a pleasant woody, earthy and camphoraceous scent and has fixative properties (makes the fragrance long-lasting).

Its composition is pretty unique: it does not contain any of the EU's 26 most common fragrance allergens, but its most important components are patchoulol (30%) and alpha-patchoulene (6%) which are responsible for its aroma and antifungal properties.

Also-called: Ci 77491/77492/77499 | What-it-does: colorant | Irritancy: 0 | Comedogenicity: 0

A bit of a sloppy ingredient name as it covers not one but three pigments: red, yellow and black iron oxide.

The trio is invaluable for "skin-colored" makeup products  (think your foundation and pressed powder) as blending these three shades carefully can produce almost any shade of natural-looking flesh tones. 

What-it-does: astringent

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

What-it-does: perfuming

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

What-it-does: antioxidant

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

What-it-does: moisturizer/humectant

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

What-it-does: antioxidant

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

What-it-does: moisturizer/humectant

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Also-called: NG Kombuchka

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Also-called: Pomegranate Enzyme | What-it-does: exfoliant

It's the fancy name for pomegranate enzyme that's obtained by fermenting the pomegranate fruit with Lactobacil­lus lactis. The fermentation process makes the desired phytochemicals readily available and selective filtration techniques are used to isolate the  proteolytic frac­tions.

The end result is the enzyme that increases cell renewal and can be an alternative to acid exfoliation (though it is not as effective as glycolic acid even according to the manufacturer's measurements not to speak about the other benefits of glycolic acid). 

What-it-does: astringent

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

What-it-does: perfuming

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

What-it-does: perfuming

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

What-it-does: soothing

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

What-it-does: emollient, soothing

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Also-called: Sage Leaf Extract | What-it-does: surfactant/cleansing

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Also-called: Ginger Root Extract | What-it-does: antioxidant, soothing

The extract coming from ginger, the lovely spice that we all know from the kitchen. It is also a medicinal plant used both in Chinese and Ayurvedic medicine for pretty much everything you can imagine (muscular pain, sore throat, nausea, fever or cramps,  just to give a few examples).

As for ginger and skincare, the root extract contains the biologically active component called gingerol that has potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Combined with Bisabololthe duo works synergistically to sooth the skin and take down redness. 

Honey Extract - goodie
What-it-does: moisturizer/humectant

Usually, a glycerin or glycol based extract of honey that has similar properties to pure honey, i.e. moisturizing, soothing and antibacterial magic properties.

If you wanna know more about honey in cosmetics, we have a shiny explanation here >>

What-it-does: soothing

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Also-called: Ci 77480 | What-it-does: colorant

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Also-called: Japanese Plum Extract | What-it-does: antioxidant

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Also-called: Satsuma Mandarin, Satsuma Orange | What-it-does: skin brightening, antioxidant

Out of the more than 900 Citrus species known today, Citrus Unshiu is a seedless, easy to peel tangerine coming from the Japanese town Satsuma. The peel extract used in cosmetics is mainly created from the "press-cake", the by-product of the juice industry and as it turns out, what's waste to one industry is a useful ingredient to another. 

In cosmetics, the main thing of the Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract is being a skin-brightening or whitening agent. In-vitro (made in test tubes) and animal studies both show promising results for inhibiting tyrosinase, the famous enzyme regulating melanin production. It also contains antioxidant components such as carotenoids, coumarins,  limonoids, and flavonoids that might be useful for the skin to protect itself from UV caused damages. 

Also-called: Papaya Fruit Extract

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Also-called: Watermelon Fruit Extract | What-it-does: antioxidant

We love a cold slice of watermelon on a hot summer day and we love watermelon as a skincare ingredient. It's really full of good-for-the-skin stuff: it contains a bunch of vitamins (A, B, C and E), mineral salts (K, Mg, Ca and Fe), amino acids citrulline and arginine and antioxidant carotenoids and phenolics

It's especially rich in potent antioxidant, lycopene (a type of carotenoid), the cool pigment that's responsible for the red color of the watermelon. According to manufacturer info, in-vitro (made in the lab not on real people) studies show that watermelon extract gives significant DNA protection against UV damage. The in-vivo (made on real people) study also confirmed this and the watermelon formula showed 25% increase in skin protection compared to placebo.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Also-called: Japanese Honeysuckle Flower Extract | What-it-does: soothing, antimicrobial/antibacterial

Lonicera Japonica, or Japanese Honeysuckle as normal people call it, is a white-flowered honeysuckle known for being a traditional Chinese medicine. Modern research confirms that the plant has a super complex chemical composition with more than 140 compounds identified with possible anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antiviral, antioxidative and hepatoprotective activities.

As for Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract in skin care, it can have two main roles. The first one is being an anti-inflammatory and soothing ingredient, probably due to chlorogenic acid, a polyphenol thought to be the main bioactive component of the flower.

Also-called: Gotu Kola, Tiger Grass | What-it-does: soothing, antioxidant, moisturizer/humectant

Centella Asiatica - or sometimes also called Gotu Kola or Cica - has been used in folk medicine for hundreds of years. It’s traditionally used to improve small wounds, burns and scratches and it’s also a well known anti-inflammatory agent for eczema.

Recently science has taken an interest in Gotu Kola as well and it turns out it really has many active compounds with several benefits. Just for hard-core geeks, the main biologically active compounds are pentacyclic triterpenoid saponins called asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic and madecassic acid (also called centellosides).

What-it-does: antioxidant

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

What-it-does: soothing

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Also-called: Carrot Root Oil | What-it-does: antioxidant, emollient

The oil-soluble extract coming from the edible, orange part of the carrot. It is created by macerating the carrot root in a carrier oil such as sunflower or olive oil, and the resulting thing (base oil + carrot root extract) is often called carrot oil or carrot root oil. (Not to be confused with carrot seed oil, that can be fixed or essential and comes from the seeds.)

The root extract is known for containing the orange pigment beta-carotene, aka provitamin A. It is a famous molecule for being a potent antioxidant, suntan accelerator and having skin-regenerative abilities. Carrot oil also contains vitamin E and some fatty acids that give the oil further antioxidant and barrier repairing properties. 

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

What-it-does: antioxidant

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Also-called: Dandelion Leaf Extract

The extract coming from the leaves of dandelion. It's a folkloric medicine for the treatment of liver and kidney disorders and we could find several studies confirming its liver-protecting, "detoxifying" effect.

What we could not find is information on what dandelion is doing in cosmetic products. Our best info is that it "enhances the clarity of skin" by helping the detoxification of the liver (though we have to admit we are a bit sceptical about this).  

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Also-called: Onion Bulb Extract | What-it-does: antimicrobial/antibacterial

You probably meet this guy more often in your kitchen than in the bathroom, but yes, onion extract is also used as a skincare ingredient. Its major skin benefit seems to be that it can improve the cosmetic appearance of postsurgical scars (there is also a scar-fading gel called Mederma, that has hardly anything else in it but onion extract). 

We also saw some manufacturer claims that onion is not only a scar healer, but it has also antibacterial and antifungal activity, it can help to reduce acne and stimulate hair growth

Also-called: Garlic Bulb Extract

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

What-it-does: emollient

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Also-called: Purslane Extract | What-it-does: soothing, antioxidant

Portulaca Oleracea is a nice succulent with bright yellow flowers and edible nutritious vegetables. It's a famous plant in Korean traditional medicine to treat infection and irritated skin.

Modern research confirms that it's loaded with skin-goodies: it's the richest green plant source of omega-3 fatty acids (α-linolenic acid), contains NMFs (polysaccharides and amino acids),  vitamins (β-carotene), minerals, and antioxidants (yellow betaxanthins and reddish betacyanins). Thanks to all its beneficial components, Purslane Extract has several magic properties: it's a great anti-inflammatory and antioxidant agent and also has wound healing abilities

Also-called: Beet Root Extract | What-it-does: antioxidant, moisturizer/humectant

Beetroot is a beautifully colored vegetable that you probably know from the kitchen. As for skincare - according to manufacturer info - it works as a natural moisturizer that might be able to increase the concentration of NMFs (natural moisturizing factors) in the upper layer of the skin giving skin both immediate and longer term hydration. 

According to Paula's Choice, it's also a colorant and a source of antioxidants

Also-called: Cucumber Fruit Extract | What-it-does: soothing, emollient

Cucumber is a nice, non-irritating plant extract that’s known for it’s soothing and emollient properties. It’s not something new to put it on our face: even Cleopatra used it to “preserve her skin”.

It’s commonly believed that cucumber is the answer to puffy eyes, but there is no research confirming this. What research does confirm is that it contains amino acids and organic acids that’s helpful for the skin’s acid mantle. There is also an enzyme (called shikimate dehydrigenase) in the pulp that’s shown to have anti-inflammatory properties.

Also-called: Turmeric Root Extract | What-it-does: antioxidant, soothing, skin brightening, perfuming

Turmeric is the yellow spice you probably know from curry and Indian food. It's also a traditional herbal medicine used in Ayurveda for its bunch of anti-something magic abilities including being anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antioxidant and anticarcinogenic. 

As for turmeric and skincare, we have good news: studies show that the root extract and its main biologically active component, curcumin can do multiple good things for the skin. Thanks to its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activity, it shows some promise for acne-prone skin and a small study from 2013 showed that it might be able to regulate sebum production

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

What-it-does: perfuming

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Also-called: Apple Fruit Extract | What-it-does: moisturizer/humectant

Apple needs no introduction as one of the most common fruits on planet Earth. It's not only a healthy fruit snack, it's also a goodie if you put in all over your face. 

It's loaded with proteins, starch, sugars, acids, vitamins and salts. The sugars (mainly fructose, glucose, sucrose) give apple fruit extract nice moisturizing and smoothing properties, while the acids (mainly malic  and gallic acid) give it mild exfoliant, skin brightening and antibacterial properties. 

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Also-called: Raspberry Extract | What-it-does: antioxidant, soothing, astringent

Raspberry is one of the colorful berries that’s not only delicious but contains many biologically active, healthy compounds. It has polyphenols including anthocyanins and ellagitannins that have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. 

According to skin care expert Paula Begoun, it’s antibacterial as well but due to its tannin content it can cause also irritation to the very sensitive skinned. 

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

What-it-does: moisturizer/humectant

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

What-it-does: astringent

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Also-called: Licorice Root;Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract | What-it-does: soothing, skin brightening

You might know licorice as a sweet treat from your childhood, but it's actually a legume that grows around the Mediterranean Sea, the Middle East, central and southern Russia. It's sweet and yellow and not only used for licorice all sorts but it's also a skincare superstar thanks to two magic properties:

Nr. 1 magic property is that it has skin-lightening or to say it another way depigmenting properties. The most active part is called glabridin. The topical application (meaning when you put it on your face) of 0.5% glabridin was shown to inhibit UVB caused pigmentation of guinea pigs. Another study even suggested that licorice is more effective than the gold standard skin-lightening agent hydroquinone. All in all, licorice is considered to be one of the safest skin lightening agents with the fewest side effects.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

What-it-does: antioxidant

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

What-it-does: astringent

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

What-it-does: perfuming

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

What-it-does: moisturizer/humectant

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

What-it-does: astringent

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

What-it-does: astringent, perfuming

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Also-called: Rosemary Leaf Extract | What-it-does: antioxidant, soothing, antimicrobial/antibacterial

The extract coming from the lovely herb, rosemary. It contains lots of chemicals, including flavonoids, phenolic acids, and diterpenes. Its main active is rosmarinic acid, a potent antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory. It has also anti-bacterial, astringent and toning properties. 

The leaves contain a small amount of essential oil (1-2%) with fragrant components, so if you are allergic to fragrance, it might be better to avoid it. 

Also-called: Shiitake Mushroom Extract

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Also-called: German Chamomile Flower Extract | What-it-does: soothing, antioxidant | Irritancy: 0 | Comedogenicity: 0

Chamomile probably needs no introduction as it's one of the most widely used medicinal herbs. You probably drink it regularly as a nice, calming cup of tea and it's also a regular on skincare ingredient lists.

Cosmetic companies use it mainly for its anti-inflammatory properties. It contains the terpenoids chamazulene and bisabolol both of which show great anti-inflammatory action in animal studies. On top of that chamomile also has some antioxidant activity (thanks to some other active ingredients called matricine, apigenin and luteolin).  

Also-called: Horsetail Extract | What-it-does: soothing, emollient, astringent

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

What-it-does: antioxidant, soothing

Houttuynia cordata is a flowering plant native to Southeast Asia. It is eaten as a leaf vegetable, and also has a long history of use in traditional Chinese medicine, including as an attempted treatment for SARS (it didn’t really work). Regarding cosmetics, however, houttuynia cordata extract has a good bit of potential! 

The main active components in the plant are these fancy chemicals called flavonoids. Houttuynia cordata specifically has a good amount of polyphenolic flavonoids, four common ones being quercetin, quercitrin, hyperoside, and rutin. All of these exhibit anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antibacterial properties. Quercitrin has also been shown to decrease damage from UVB rays, which is an added bonus. One thing to keep in mind, though, is that the flavonoid content of this extract can depend on if the extract is taken from the roots or the leaves, as well as if it’s a water extraction or an alcohol extraction.

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what‑it‑does anti-acne | surfactant/cleansing | emulsifying
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A fatty acid that can be found in coconut milk and human breast milk. It can be used as an emulsifier or as a cleansing agent. There are also promising studies about lauric acid being an effective anti-acne ingredient. [more]
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A real oldie but a goodie. Great natural moisturizer and skin-identical ingredient that plays an important role in skin hydration and general skin health. [more]
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what‑it‑does antimicrobial/antibacterial | solvent | viscosity controlling
Alcohol with some additives to make it unconsumable. It is great solvent, penetration enhancer, creates cosmetically elegant, light formulas, great astringent, and antimicrobial. In large amounts, it can be very drying to the skin. [more]
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An often used glycol that works as a solvent, humectant, penetration enhancer and also gives a good slip to the products. [more]
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The essential oil coming from the fruit (probably the rind) of the bergamot orange.  It's a common top note in perfumes and contains (among others) fragrant compounds limonene (37%), linalyl acetate (30%) and linalool (8.8%).  A well-known issue with bergamot oil (apart from the fragrance allergens) is that it contains phototoxic  [more]
what‑it‑does solvent
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Rose essential oil - a super expensive oil with a lovely scent. Has also antioxidant and antimicrobial properties. Contains fragrant components that might irritate sensitive skin. [more]
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A helper ingredient that helps to neutralize the metal ions in the formula (that usually get into there from water) that would otherwise cause some not so nice changes.
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Titanium dioxide as a colorant. It's a white pigment with great color consistency and dispersibility.
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Sweet, exotic and floral, it’ no surprise that Ylang Ylang is a popular essential oil. It is coming from the yellow, fragrant flowers of the Cananga tree native to tropical Asia and, similar to other essential oils, it is a chemically complex mixture with several pros and cons. Unfortunately, these are a bit tricky to pin down as the composition varies largely depending on where it is so [more]
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Lavender - essential oil with a calming scent and antimicrobial properties. Contains fragrant components (linalyl acetate - 50% and linalool - 35%) and might be cytotoxic from 0.25%. [more]
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A very common emollient that makes your skin feel nice and smooth. Comes from coconut oil and glycerin, it’s light-textured, clear, odorless and non-greasy. [more]
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Green Tea - one of the most researched natural ingredients that contains the superstar actives called catechins. It has proven antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and anticarcinogenic properties. [more]
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Patchouli essential oil that has a woody, earthy and camphoraceous scent and also has fixative properties. Also has fixative and antifungal properties. [more]
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A mix of red, yellow and black iron oxide. [more]
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Pomegranate Enzyme that is obtained by fermenting the pomegranate fruit. It can increase cell renewal and can be a (less effective) alternative to acid exfoliation. [more]
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Ginger extract that has antioxidant and soothing properties. It is also known to increase blood circulation and thus have a toning effect. [more]
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what‑it‑does moisturizer/humectant
Usually, a glycerin or glycol based extract of honey that has similar properties to pure honey, i.e. moisturizing, soothing and antibacterial magic properties. If you wanna know more about honey in cosmetics, we have a shiny explanation here >> [more]
what‑it‑does soothing
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Out of the more than 900 Citrus species known today, Citrus Unshiu is a seedless, easy to peel tangerine coming from the Japanese town Satsuma. The peel extract used in cosmetics is mainly created from the "press-cake", the by-product of the juice industry and as it turns out, what's waste to one industry is a useful ingredient to another. [more]
what‑it‑does antioxidant
Watermelon extract that's full of good-for-the-skin stuff, including vitamins, minerals, amino acids and antioxidants. A useful antioxidant-rich ingredient to protect skin from UV-induced damage. [more]
what‑it‑does soothing | antimicrobial/antibacterial
Lonicera Japonica, or Japanese Honeysuckle as normal people call it, is a white-flowered honeysuckle known for being a traditional Chinese medicine. Modern research confirms that the plant has a super complex chemical composition with more than 140 compounds identified with possible anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antiviral, antioxidative and hepatoprotective activities. [more]
what‑it‑does soothing | antioxidant | moisturizer/humectant
Centella Asiatica - or sometimes also called Gotu Kola or Cica - has been used in folk medicine for hundreds of years. It’s traditionally used to improve small wounds, burns and scratches and it’s also a well known anti-inflammatory agent for eczema. Recently science has taken an interest in Gotu Kola as well and it turns out it really has many active compounds with several benefits. [more]
what‑it‑does antioxidant
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what‑it‑does antioxidant | emollient
The oil-soluble extract coming from the edible, orange part of the carrot. It is created by macerating the carrot root in a carrier oil such as sunflower or olive oil, and the resulting thing (base oil + carrot root extract) is often called carrot oil or carrot root oil. [more]
what‑it‑does antioxidant
Dandelion Extract - a folkloric medicine for the treatment of liver and kidney disorders. It's unclear what it does in a cosmetic product. [more]
what‑it‑does antimicrobial/antibacterial
You probably meet this guy more often in your kitchen than in the bathroom, but yes, onion extract is also used as a skincare ingredient. Its major skin benefit seems to be that it can improve the cosmetic appearance of postsurgical scars (there is also a scar-fading gel called Mederma, that has hardly anything else in it but onion extract). [more]
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Purslane Extract - a traditional Korean medicinal plant with skin-soothing, antioxidant and wound healing abilities. [more]
what‑it‑does antioxidant | moisturizer/humectant
Beetroot is a natural moisturizer, colorant, and antioxidant. [more]
what‑it‑does soothing | emollient
Cucumber is a nice, non-irritating plant extract that’s known for it’s soothing and emollient properties. [more]
what‑it‑does antioxidant | soothing | skin brightening | perfuming
Turmeric Root Extract that has nice anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and skin-brightening properties. [more]
what‑it‑does perfuming
what‑it‑does moisturizer/humectant
Apple fruit extract that's loaded with proteins, starch, sugars, acids, vitamins and salts. The sugars give apple nice moisturizing properties, while the acids give mild exfoliant, skin brightening and antibacterial properties.  [more]
what‑it‑does antioxidant | soothing
Raspberry is one of the colorful berries that’s not only delicious but contains many biologically active, healthy compounds. It has polyphenols including anthocyanins and ellagitannins that have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. According to skin care expert Paula Begoun, it’s antibacterial as well but due to its tannin content it can cause also irritation to the very s [more]
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You might know licorice as a sweet treat from your childhood, but it's actually a legume that grows around the Mediterranean Sea, the Middle East, central and southern Russia. [more]
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Rosemary leaf extract - Its main active is rosmarinic acid, a potent antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory. It has also anti-bacterial, astringent and toning properties. [more]
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Chamomile extract - has great anti-inflammatory and some antioxidant properties. [more]
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A flavonoid-rich plant extract known mainly for its soothing and antioxidant properties. [more]