

Atopalm
MLE Cream
Uploaded on 05/09/2022
A luxurious, moisturising, non-greasy, quickly absorbed cream that leaves the skin feeling soft and hydrated.
Aestura
Atobarrier 365 Cream
Uploaded on 01/15/2024
Enhanced barrier hydration with high-density ceramides specialized for sensitive skin.
It
is an evolved product with high-density ceramides specialized for sensitive skin.
Ingredients
what‑it‑does | solvent |
Normal (well kind of - it's purified and deionized) water. Usually the main solvent in cosmetic products.
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what‑it‑does | moisturizer/humectant | solvent |
irritancy, com. | 0, 1 |
An often used glycol that works as a solvent, humectant, penetration enhancer and also gives a good slip to the products.
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what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient | moisturizer/humectant |
irritancy, com. | 0, 0 |
A real oldie but a goodie. Great natural moisturizer and skin-identical ingredient that plays an important role in skin hydration and general skin health.
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what‑it‑does | emollient |
what‑it‑does | emollient |
An odorless and colorless emollient ester that gives a velvety and silky feel to the skin.
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what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient | emollient |
irritancy, com. | 0, 1 |
An emollient and natural moisturizer that can be found also in the sebum (oily stuff our skin produces). It leaves a nice non-greasy, non-heavy feeling on the skin.
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what‑it‑does | emollient |
irritancy, com. | 0, 2 |
A liquid emollient that gives a rich, cushiony skin-feel and unusually high levels of gloss. Often used in lip balms.
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what‑it‑does | emollient |
A clear, colorless, almost odorless oil that spreads nicely and easily and gives a velvet dry skin feel. It is good friends with sunscreen agents and helps to solubilize them.
what‑it‑does | emollient | viscosity controlling |
A fatty alcohol (the non-drying type) that is used to increase the viscosity of the formula and stabilize emulsions.
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what‑it‑does | emollient |
irritancy, com. | 0, 1 |
A very common silicone that gives both skin and hair a silky smooth feel. It also forms a protective barrier on the skin and fills in fine lines. Also used for scar treatment.
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what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient | emollient |
A bio-mimetic ceramide molecule that is claimed to be similarly effective as ceramide 3 at moisturizing the skin and helping the barrier function. We have more about ceramides here.
The advantages of Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide MEA are a lower melting point and hence easier formulation and better price point than real ceramides.
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what‑it‑does | emollient | viscosity controlling |
irritancy, com. | 0, 2-3 |
A common multi-tasker fatty acid that works as an emollient, thickener and emulsion stabilizer.
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what‑it‑does | moisturizer/humectant |
A sugar beet derived amino acid derivative with nice skin protection and moisturization properties. Its special thing is being an osmolyte, a molecule that helps to control cell-water balance.
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what‑it‑does | moisturizer/humectant |
A type of sugar molecule, that has water-binding properties and helps to keep your skin hydrated.
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A 100% vegetable origin emulsifier that helps to create ultra-soft, light textures.
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what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient | emollient | emulsifying |
irritancy, com. | 0, 2 |
A fatty acid that can be found naturally in the skin. It can make the skin feel nice and smooth in moisturizers (emollient) or it can act as a foam building cleansing agent in cleansers.
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what‑it‑does | emollient |
what‑it‑does | emollient | viscosity controlling |
A fatty alcohol (the non-drying type with a long oil loving chain of 20 carbon atoms) that is used to increase the viscosity of the formula and it also helps the oily and the watery parts to stay nicely mixed together (called emulsion stabilizing).
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what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient | emollient |
irritancy, com. | 0, 0 |
It's one of the important lipids that can be found naturally in the outer layer of the skin. About 25% of the goopy stuff between our skin cells consists of cholesterol.
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A film forming polymer that usually comes to the formula as part of a thickener-emulsifier trio paired with Polyisobutene and Polysorbate 20.
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what‑it‑does | emulsifying | surfactant/cleansing |
A 100% vegetable origin emulsifier that usually comes to the formula with its buddy called C14-22 Alcohols. The duo is called Montanov L and two together help to create ultra-soft light formulas.
what‑it‑does | soothing |
irritancy, com. | 0, 0 |
Super common soothing ingredient. It can be found naturally in the roots & leaves of the comfrey plant, but more often than not what's in the cosmetic products is produced synthetically. It's not only soothing but it'
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what‑it‑does | emulsifying | surfactant/cleansing |
An ingredient that is created from the attachment of the water-loving sugar molecule, glucose, and an oil-loving 20 carbon long fatty chain. This makes it a partly water- and partly oil-soluble material, meaning it functions as an emulsifier helping oil and water to mix.
Most often, it comes to the formula coupled with two fatty alcohol friends, Arachidyl and Behenyl alcohol, to make
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what‑it‑does | cell-communicating ingredient | skin brightening | anti-acne | moisturizer/humectant |
A multi-functional skincare superstar that has clinically proven anti-aging, skin lightening, anti-inflammatory and barrier repair properties.
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what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient |
Ceramides make up 50% of the goopy stuff that's between our skin cells and play a super important role in having a healthy skin barrier and keeping the skin hydrated.
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what‑it‑does | preservative |
A natural multi-functional ingredient that has emollient and moisturizing properties, can work as a co-emulsifier and has a strong antimicrobial activity.
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what‑it‑does | preservative |
It can boost the effectiveness of phenoxyethanol (and other preservatives) and as an added bonus it feels nice on the skin too.
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what‑it‑does | emollient | viscosity controlling |
irritancy, com. | 2, 1 |
A synthetic liquid oil that can replace mineral oil or silicone oils in the cosmetic formulas. There are different grades depending on the molecular weight ranging from very light, volatile, non-residue leaving ones to more substantial, slight residue leaving ones.Apart from leaving the skin soft and smooth (emollient), it'
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what‑it‑does | viscosity controlling |
irritancy, com. | 0, 1 |
A handy white powder that magically converts a liquid into a nice gel formula.
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what‑it‑does | buffering |
It's a little helper ingredient that helps to set the pH of the products to be right. It has an alkaline pH and can neutralize acidic ingredients.
what‑it‑does | emollient | moisturizer/humectant |
A thick, high molecular weight silicone that is usually diluted in a lighter silicone fluid. The dimethiconol containing silicone blends leave a silky smooth, non-greasy film on the skin.
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what‑it‑does | surfactant/cleansing | emulsifying |
A glycerin-derived gentle cleansing agent that is described as being skin and eye-friendly, and not leaving the skin dry or tight. Also used as a co-emulsifier.
what‑it‑does | emollient | emulsifying |
It's the chemically chopped up version of normal lecithin. Most often it's used to create liposomes and to coat and stabilize some other ingredient.
what‑it‑does | emollient |
irritancy, com. | 0, 2-4 |
A super common, medium-spreading emollient ester that gives richness to the formula and a mild feel during rubout.
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what‑it‑does | emulsifying |
irritancy, com. | 0, 1-2 |
A handy helper ingredient that helps water and oil to mix nicely together.
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what‑it‑does | viscosity controlling |
A white powdery thing that can mattify the skin and thicken up cosmetic products.
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what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient | cell-communicating ingredient | anti-acne | antimicrobial/antibacterial |
A type of lipid that can be found naturally in the skin. Has antimicrobial and cell-communicating properties and is considered to be part of the skin's natural defence system.
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what‑it‑does | emollient |
what‑it‑does | surfactant/cleansing | emulsifying |
what‑it‑does | antioxidant |
irritancy, com. | 0-3, 0-3 |
Pure Vitamin E. Great antioxidant that gives significant photoprotection against UVB rays. Works in synergy with Vitamin C.
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what‑it‑does | emollient | emulsifying |
A common fatty acid that can be found in lots of plant oils. Its name, "oleic", means derived from olive oil, a plant oil rich in oleic acid, but avocado, macadamia and marula oils, just to name a few, are also oleic rich.
Its chemical structure is monounsaturated, meaning it has one double bond (cis-9) that makes it less kinky than polyunsaturated fatty acids with multi
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what‑it‑does | emollient |
A very common emollient that makes your skin feel nice and smooth. Comes from coconut oil and glycerin, it’s light-textured, clear, odorless and non-greasy.
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what‑it‑does | emollient | viscosity controlling | emulsifying | surfactant/cleansing |
irritancy, com. | 1, 2 |
A super common multitasker ingredient that gives your skin a nice soft feel (emollient) and gives body to creams.
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what‑it‑does | emollient |
what‑it‑does | solvent | moisturizer/humectant |
A multi-functional, silky feeling helper ingredient that can do quite many things. It's used as an emulsion stabilizer, solvent, and a broad spectrum antimicrobial.
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what‑it‑does | emollient |
Shea butter that's considered to be a magic moisturizer and emollient. It is also soothing and rich in antioxidants.
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what‑it‑does | solvent | moisturizer/humectant |
A natural corn sugar derived glycol. It can be used to improve skin moisturization, as a solvent, to boost preservative efficacy or to influence the sensory properties of the end formula.
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what‑it‑does | emulsifying |
irritancy, com. | 1, 0 |
A popular, vegetable-derived oil-loving emulsifier that helps water to mix with oil. In itself, it is suitable for water-in-oil emulsions (where water droplets are dispersed in oil), but it is more often used as a co-emulsifier next to other, water-loving emulsifiers.
Chemically speaking, it comes from the attachment of sorbitan (a dehydrated sorbitol (sugar) molecule) with the fatty
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what‑it‑does | emollient |
irritancy, com. | 0, 0-2 |
Jojoba oil - a wax ester (chemically not a real oil), that's very similar to human sebum. It's uniquely excellent at helping the skin with its protective barrier and helping it to stay moisturized.
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what‑it‑does | emollient |
what‑it‑does | moisturizer/humectant |
what‑it‑does | antioxidant |
what‑it‑does | antioxidant | soothing |
A flavonoid-rich plant extract known mainly for its soothing and antioxidant properties.
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what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient |
An essential amino acid (a building block of skin proteins like collagen) that is a skin hydrator.
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what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient |
An essential amino acid (important building block of collagen and elastin) that hydrates the skin.
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what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient |
An essential amino acid that is used in the treatment of vitiligo.
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what‑it‑does | emollient |
irritancy, com. | 0, 3 |
what‑it‑does | antioxidant | emollient |
irritancy, com. | 0, 0-2 |
Olive oil - an oleic acid-rich (55-83%) emollient plant oil that can moisturize dry skin. Also, it contains antioxidant polyphenols and vitamin E.
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what‑it‑does | antioxidant | emollient |
irritancy, com. | 0, 0-2 |
Safflower Seed Oil - emollient plant oil with moisturizing fatty acids (linoleic: 70%, oleic: 11%) and antioxidant vitamin E (44mg/100g alpha-tocopherol).
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what‑it‑does | antioxidant | emollient |
A goodie plant oil coming from the polyphenol-rich seeds of the grape. It's a light emollient oil that is a great source of antioxidant polyphenols, barrier repair fatty acid linoleic acid and antioxidant, skin-protectant vitamin E.
what‑it‑does | chelating |
It’s one of those little helper ingredients that makes sure the product stays the same over time. No color change or anything like that. It does so by neutralizing the metal ions in the formula (that usually get into there from water) that would otherwise cause some not so nice changes.
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what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient |
An amino acid that is one of the primary building blocks of hair keratin and skin collagen. It's a natural moisturizing factor and might also help to speed up wound healing.
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what‑it‑does | soothing | antioxidant |
Purslane Extract - a traditional Korean medicinal plant with skin-soothing, antioxidant and wound healing abilities.
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what‑it‑does | viscosity controlling |
A super commonly used thickener and emulsion stabilizer.
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what‑it‑does | emollient |
irritancy, com. | 0, 0 |
Sunflower Oil - it's a great emollient that protects & enhances the skin barrier.
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what‑it‑does | soothing |
what‑it‑does | moisturizer/humectant |
what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient | moisturizer/humectant |
irritancy, com. | 0, 0 |
It's the salt form of famous humectant and natural moisturizing factor, hyaluronic acid. It can bind huge amounts of water and it's pretty much the current IT-moisturizer.
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what‑it‑does | soothing | moisturizer/humectant |
A great skin soother and moisturizer, and it even shows promising anti-aging benefits. It‘s also shown to have wound healing properties and is a mild antioxidant.
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what‑it‑does | perfuming |
what‑it‑does | perfuming |
Patchouli essential oil that has a woody, earthy and camphoraceous scent and also has fixative properties. Also has fixative and antifungal properties.
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what‑it‑does | perfuming |
what‑it‑does | soothing | perfuming |
The essential oil coming from the second most common type of chamomile, the Roman Chamomile. It also contains the biologically active anti-inflammatory components, bisabolol, and chamazulene, but less than the more commonly used German Chamomile.
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what‑it‑does | solvent |
A multi-functional helper ingredient that acts as a humectant and emollient. It's also a solvent and can boost the effectiveness of preservatives.
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what‑it‑does | emollient | emulsifying |