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Oleic Acid

Oleic Acid

Also-called-like-this: Omega-9 fatty acid
What-it-does: emollient, emulsifying

Details

A common fatty acid that can be found in lots of plant oils. Its name, "oleic", means derived from olive oil, a plant oil rich in oleic acid, but avocado, macadamia and marula oils, just to name a few, are also oleic rich.

Its chemical structure is monounsaturated, meaning it has one double bond (cis-9) that makes it less kinky than polyunsaturated fatty acids with multiple double bonds. Less kinkiness means that oleic acid and OA-rich oils are a bit thicker and heavier than their LA-rich siblings.

Maybe this thickness is the reason that Oleic acid is considered comedogenic, and if you have acne-prone skin avoid OA-rich plant oils, and choose linoleic acid-rich versions instead.

The thickness of OA also means that OA-rich oils are considered more nourishing and moisturizing than their LA-rich counterparts, and are generally considered to be more suitable for dry, mature skin types. 

As for oleic acid in its free form (and by free we mean that it is not bound up in a triglyceride structure like it is in oils), it mostly serves as an emulsifier or emulsion stabilizer in small amounts in regular cosmetic products. It is also quite well researched and is used in the pharmaceutical industry as a penetration enhancer

Show me some proof

  • Naik, Aarti, et al. "Mechanism of oleic acid-induced skin penetration enhancement in vivo in humans." Journal of controlled release 37.3 (1995): 299-306.
  • Motoyoshi, K. "Enhanced comedo formation in rabbit ear skin by squalene and oleic acid peroxides." British Journal of Dermatology 109.2 (1983): 191-198.
  • Cardoso, C. R., et al. "Oleic acid modulation of the immune response in wound healing: a new approach for skin repair." Immunobiology 216.3 (2011): 409-415.
  • Mack Correa, Mary Catherine, et al. "Molecular interactions of plant oil components with stratum corneum lipids correlate with clinical measures of skin barrier function." Experimental dermatology 23.1 (2014): 39-44.

Products with Oleic Acid

Calecim Professional Multi Action Cream Lida Gel De Ducha Glicerina minimalist Cleansing Oil DMK Hydroloc DMK Revitosin DR. SEA Facial Day Cream Intensive Moisturizing Gold And Hyaluronic Acid Neutrogena Liquid Neutrogena - The Transparent Facial Cleanser Oh K SOS Foaming Cleansing Bar Portia M Marula Skin Oil Quintal Fluido Hidratante Finalizador Antiacne Renophase Repair L Creme Clairol Beautiful Collection Advanced Gray Solution DMK Acu Creme Matriskin Eye Perimeter 360 Serum Quintal Máscara De Argila Verde Ree Derma Hot Oil Hair And Scalp Treatment moorspa Make-Up Remover Beyer&Söhne Hautcreme+ Trockene Haut Black Opal Pore Perfecting Liquid Foundation Clearly Natural Aloe Vera Glycerine Bar Soap EM Cosmetics Micro-fluff Sculpting Brow Cream PANVEL Sérum Antioxidante Panvel Faces Skincare Pacifica Beauty Vegan Collagen Conditioning Lash Serum & Primer Pipette Baby Oil (2021) Tracta Vitamina C 10 - Sérum Antioxidante antioxidante hidratante Sallve Aleph Lift / Lengthen Mascara Aveda Mosscara™ Beauty Pie Super Healthy Skin™ Nourishing Body Polish Davines Dede Conditioner Dermoskin Babycare Baby Oil Esmi Anti-redness Minty Green Smoothie Herbatint Hair Color Lotil Cream NATURALS BY WATSONS Cica & Sunflower Soothing Cleansing Foam Proraso Shaving Cream Tube Cypress & Vetyver Sandstone Scandinavia Mascara Intense Schwarzkopf Gliss Oil Nutritive Nourish Shampoo Senka Perfect Bubble For Body Tracta Sérum Facial Tracta Vitamina C10 Helia-D RE Genero Nourishing Serum For Split Ends Ilcsi Mineral Cleansing Concentrate Ilcsi Nettle Cleansing Concentrate Maybelline Pure+ Polvo Compacto Nature Republic Collagen Dream 70 Eye Cream Paula's Choice Resist Anti-Aging Replenishing Toner Quintal Fluido Hidratante Finalizador Clareador Adcock Ingram Sbr Repair Bolt Beauty Glow Don’t Shine Hidrabene Creme Antipoluição Anti-Aging Facial