
Highlights
Skim through
Ingredient name | what-it-does | irr., com. | ID-Rating |
---|---|---|---|
Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil | antioxidant, emollient | 0, 0-2 | goodie |
Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Oil | antioxidant | 0, 0 | |
Tanacetum Annuum (Blue Tansy) Leaf Oil | |||
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil | emollient | 0, 0-2 | goodie |
Retinyl Palmitate | cell-communicating ingredient | 1-3, 1-3 | |
FD & C Blue No. 1 (Cl 42090) | colorant | ||
D & C Violet No. 2 (60725) | colorant |
Valjean Labs Overnight Repair Facial OilIngredients explained
The oil coming from the seeds of the yellow flowered safflower plant. Similar to other plant oils, it's loaded with nourishing and moisturizing fatty acids: it's a high linoleic acid oil (70%) and has only smaller amounts of oleic acid (11%) (this might be great for acne-prone skin). It also contains antioxidant vitamin E (44mg/100g alpha-tocopherol).
It’s the most commonly used version of pure vitamin E in cosmetics. You can read all about the pure form here. This one is the so-called esterified version.
According to famous dermatologist, Leslie Baumann while tocopheryl acetate is more stable and has a longer shelf life, it’s also more poorly absorbed by the skin and may not have the same awesome photoprotective effects as pure Vit E.
We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
Jojoba is a drought resistant evergreen shrub native to South-western North America. It's known and grown for jojoba oil, the golden yellow liquid coming from the seeds (about 50% of the weight of the seeds will be oil).
At first glance, it seems like your average emollient plant oil: it looks like an oil and it's nourishing and moisturizing to the skin but if we dig a bit deeper, it turns out that jojoba oil is really special and unique: technically - or rather chemically - it's not an oil but a wax ester (and calling it an oil is kind of sloppy).
It's an ester form of vitamin A (retinol + palmitic acid) that belongs to the "retinoid family". The retinoid family is pretty much the royal family of skincare, with the queen being the FDA-approved anti-aging ingredient tretinoin. Retinol is also a very famous member of the family, but it's like Prince William, two steps away from the throne. Retinyl palmitate will be then little Prince George, quite far (3 steps) away from the throne.
By steps, we mean metabolic steps. Tretinoin, aka retinoic acid, is the active ingredient our skin cells can understand and retinyl palmitate (RP) has to be converted by our metabolic machinery to actually do something. The conversion is a 3 step one and looks like this:
CI 42090 or Blue 1 is a super common synthetic colorant in beauty & food. Used alone, it adds a brilliant smurf-like blue color, combined with Tartrazine, it gives the fifty shades of green.
We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
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what‑it‑does | antioxidant | emollient |
irritancy, com. | 0, 0-2 |
what‑it‑does | antioxidant |
irritancy, com. | 0, 0 |
what‑it‑does | emollient |
irritancy, com. | 0, 0-2 |
what‑it‑does | cell-communicating ingredient |
irritancy, com. | 1-3, 1-3 |
what‑it‑does | colorant |
what‑it‑does | colorant |