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Retinyl Palmitate

Retinyl Palmitate

Also-called-like-this: Form of Retinoids
Irritancy: 1-3
Comedogenicity: 1-3

Official CosIng Information

Details

It's an ester form of vitamin A (retinol + palmitic acid) that belongs to the "retinoid family". The retinoid family is pretty much the royal family of skincare, with the queen being the FDA-approved anti-aging ingredient tretinoin. Retinol is also a very famous member of the family, but it's like Prince William, two steps away from the throne. Retinyl palmitate will be then little Prince George, quite far (3 steps) away from the throne. 

By steps, we mean metabolic steps. Tretinoin, aka retinoic acid, is the active ingredient our skin cells can understand and retinyl palmitate (RP) has to be converted by our metabolic machinery to actually do something. The conversion is a 3 step one and looks like this:

retinyl palmitate --> retinol -- > retinaldehyde --> all-trans-retinoic acid

As we wrote in our lengthy retinol description the problem is that the conversion is not terribly effective. The evidence that RP is still an effective anti-aging ingredient is not very strong, in fact, it's weak. Dr. Leslie Baumann in her fantastic Cosmetic Dermatology book writes that RP is topically ineffective

What's more, the anti-aging effectiveness is not the only questionable thing about RP. It also exibits questionable behaviour in the presence of UV light and was the center of a debate between the non-profit group, EWG (whose intentions are no doubt good, but its credibility is often questioned by scientists) and a group of scientists and dermatologists lead by Steven Q. Wang, MD,  director of dermatologic surgery at Memorial-Sloan Kettering Cancer Centre. 

Dr. Leslie Baumann wrote a great review of the debate and summarized the research available about retinyl palmitate here.  It seems that there is a study showing RP being photo protective against UVB rays but there is also a study showing RP causing DNA damage and cytotoxicity in association with UVA. 

We think that the truth lies somewhere in the middle, and we agree with Dr. Baumann's conclusion: "sufficient evidence to establish a causal link between RP and skin cancer has not been produced. Nor, I’m afraid, are there any good reasons to recommend the use of RP". We would add especially during the day!

Bottom line: If you wanna get serious about retinoids, RP is not your ingredient (retinol or tretinoin is!). However, if you use a product that you like and it also contains RP, there is no reason to throw it away. If possible use it at night, just to be on the safe side.

Show me some proof

  • The Journal of investigative dermatology, 2003 Nov;121(5):1163-7., Vitamin A exerts a photoprotective action in skin by absorbing ultraviolet B radiation
  • Toxicology and industrial health, 2005 Sep;21(7-8):167-75., Photo-induced DNA damage and photocytotoxicity of retinyl palmitate and its photodecomposition products
  • Leslie Baumann, MD, Cosmetic Dermatology, 2nd edition, Retinoids, Chapter 30 - pages 256-262

Products with a known amount of Retinyl Palmitate

Other products with Retinyl Palmitate

Khadi Retinol 2.5% Serum Organo Retinol Serum Luxe organix Age Reverse Serum Vitamin A 2.5% Pixi Overnight Retinol Oil Skin Authority Vitamin A Cell Renewal St. Botanica Retinol 2.5% + E & Hyaluronic Acid Professional Facial Serum A313 Vitamin A Pommade Plush Bio Russian Doll Sarah Chapman Skinesis Power A Renewal System Urban Skin Rx Hydranutrient Radiance Restore Oil Ava Laboratorium Youth Activators Serum Prreti Real Vita Eye Zone Patch SHANI DARDEN Texture Reform Gentle Resurfacing Serum Sanitas Vitarich Serum Truly Purple Rain Glow Serum BRAD Biophotonic Skin Care Essential Elixir Pore-Tightening Resurfacing Replenish Serum Bakel Nutrioil Nourishing Serum Beauty Pie Über Youth Complexion Overhaul Multi-Action Ampoules Bi-oil Huile De Soin Bio-Oil Multiuse Skincare Oil Bio-Oil Skincare Oil Bio-Oil Specialist Skincare Oil Biobelle #Happyhour Facial Mask Cosmonatura Gel Aloe Vera 100% Puro Forever Flawless Diamond Infused Exfoliating & Foaming Cleanser M.asam retinol intense Retinol Ampules Rexsol Retinol+Aha Anti-Wrinkle Treatment Cream Sand & Sky Brilliant Skin Purifying Pink Clay Mask Sand and Sky Purifying Pink Clay Mask ScrubD Anti-Ageing Face Serum Skin first Booster Retinolo Sympli Beautiful Bio-Renewing Treatment Oil Trader Joe's Moisturizing Gel With Aloe Vera Transparent lab Gentle Rejuvenation Serum Truly Hemp Jelly Face Mask Valjean Labs Clarify Vitamin A + Witch Hazel Valjean Labs Overnight Repair Facial Oil Vitaskin Vitamin A Resurfacing Mask facetheory Regenacalm Serum naturium Retinol Serum 2.5% tommi skin Anti-Acne Green Clay Mask Avivie Intensive Lifting Mask Benefit Boi-ing Brightening Concealer Christian Breton Liftox Anti-Wrinkle Eye Serum DCL Alpha Beta Gel Toner DermDoc Skin Tightening Face Cream With Hydrolyzed Collagen Derma E Anti-Wrinkle Toner Face Theory Retin-C Retinol Scar Treatment Oil OZNaturals Hyaluronic Acid Serum Sonoma naturals Vitamin C Face Mask