Skin Booster
Powered serum, expertly formulated to rejuvenate, brighten, and hydrate with the new microneedling technology with hydrolyzed sponge needles
Uploaded by: fayrouza on
Ingredients overview
Active Ingredients:
Retinol (0.1%),
Vitamin C (5%),
Hyaluronic Acid (2%),
Niacinamide (2%),
Centella Asiatica (6%),
Lactic Acid (1%)
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Highlights
Alcohol Free
Fragrance and Essential Oil Free
Key Ingredients
Skim through
| Ingredient name | what-it-does | irr., com. | ID-Rating |
|---|---|---|---|
| Retinol (0.1%) | cell-communicating ingredient | superstar | |
| Vitamin C (5%) | antioxidant, skin brightening, buffering | superstar | |
| Hyaluronic Acid (2%) | skin-identical ingredient, moisturizer/humectant | goodie | |
| Niacinamide (2%) | cell-communicating ingredient, skin brightening, anti-acne, moisturizer/humectant | superstar | |
| Centella Asiatica (6%) | soothing, antioxidant, moisturizer/humectant | goodie | |
| Lactic Acid (1%) | exfoliant, moisturizer/humectant, buffering | superstar |
Dermaelle Skin BoosterIngredients explained
Retinol (0.1%) - superstar
Also-called: Vitamin A, Form of Retinoids |
What-it-does:
cell-communicating ingredient
- Retinol (pure Vitamin A) is probably the most proven anti-aging ingredient available OTC
- It has to be converted in the skin to retinoic acid to work its magic
- Once converted, it has the same effect as all-trans-retinoic acid, aka tretinoin
- A generally accepted ballpark number is that retinol is 10-to-20 times less potent than retinoic acid
- It makes skin less wrinkled, smoother, firmer and tighter
- It might also be helpful for acne prone skin as it normalizes keratinization and makes the pores produce less sebum
- Possible side effects and irritation are also much less than with retinoic acid
- Do not use whilst pregnant
Vitamin C (5%) - superstar
Also-called: Vitamin C, L-ascorbic acid;Ascorbic Acid |
What-it-does:
antioxidant, skin brightening, buffering
- Works best between a concentration of 5-20%
- Boosts the skin’s own collagen production
- Fades pigmentation and brown spots
- If used under sunscreen it boosts its UV protection
- Extremely unstable and oxidizes very easily in presence of light or air
- Stable in solutions with water only if pH is less than 3.5 or in waterless formulations
- Vit E + C work in synergy and provide superb photoprotection
- Ferulic acid doubles the photoprotection effect of Vit C+E and helps to stabilize Vit C
- Potent Vit. C serums might cause a slight tingling on sensitive skin
Hyaluronic Acid (2%) - goodie
What-it-does:
skin-identical ingredient, moisturizer/humectant
- It’s naturally in our skin and behaves there like a sponge
- It can bind up to 1000 times its own weight in water
- It is a big molecule from repeated subunits (polymer) so different molecular weight versions exist (unfortunately there is no way to determine MW from INCI list only)
- High-molecular-weight-HA (>500 kDa) is an excellent surface hydrator, skin protectant and can act as an osmotic pump helping water-soluble actives to penetrate deeper into the skin
- Low-molecular-weight-HA (< 500 kDa) can hydrate the skin somewhat deeper though it is still a big molecule and works mainly in the epidermis (outer layer of the skin)
- Low-molecular-weight-HA might also help the skin to repair itself by increasing its self-defense (~ 200kDa used in the study)
- Ultra-low-molecular-weight-HA (<50kDa) is a controversial ingredient and might work as a pro-inflammatory signal molecule
Niacinamide (2%) - superstar
Also-called: vitamin B3, nicotinamide |
What-it-does:
cell-communicating ingredient, skin brightening, anti-acne, moisturizer/humectant
- A multi-functional skincare superstar with several proven benefits for the skin
- Great anti-aging, wrinkle smoothing ingredient used at 4-5% concentration
- Fades brown spots alone or in combination with amino sugar, acetyl glucosamine
- Increases ceramide synthesis that results in a stronger, healthier skin barrier and better skin hydration
- Can help to improve several skin conditions including acne, rosacea, and atopic dermatitis
Centella Asiatica (6%) - goodie
Also-called: Gotu Kola, Tiger Grass;Centella Asiatica Extract |
What-it-does:
soothing, antioxidant, moisturizer/humectant
Centella Asiatica - or sometimes also called Gotu Kola or Cica - has been used in folk medicine for hundreds of years. It’s traditionally used to improve small wounds, burns and scratches and it’s also a well known anti-inflammatory agent for eczema.
Recently science has taken an interest in Gotu Kola as well and it turns out it really has many active compounds with several benefits. Just for hard-core geeks, the main biologically active compounds are pentacyclic triterpenoid saponins called asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic and madecassic acid (also called centellosides).
One of the biological activities of the centellosides is to be able to stimulate GAGs (glycosaminoglycans - polysaccharides that are part of the liquidy stuff between our skin cells), and especially hyaluronic acid synthesis in our skin. This is probably one of the reasons why Centella Asiatica Extract has nice skin moisturizing properties that was confirmed by a 25 people, four weeks study along with Centella's anti-inflammatory effects.
Madecassoside can also help in burn wound healing through increasing antioxidant activity and enhancing collagen synthesis. Asiaticoside was shown to increase antioxidant levels on rats skin when applied at 0.2%.
Centella Asiatica also often shows up in products that try to treat cellulite or striae. Of course, it cannot make a miracle but it might have some effect via regulating microcirculation and normalizing the metabolism in the cells of connective tissues.
Bottom line: Gotu Kola is a great plant ingredient with proven wound healing, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. Nice to spot on any ingredient list.
Lactic Acid (1%) - superstar
What-it-does:
exfoliant, moisturizer/humectant, buffering
- It’s the second most researched AHA after glycolic acid
- It gently lifts off dead skin cells to reveal newer, fresher, smoother skin
- It also has amazing skin hydrating properties
- In higher concentration (10% and up) it improves skin firmness, thickness and wrinkles
- Choose a product where you know the concentration and pH value because these two greatly influence effectiveness
- Don’t forget to use your sunscreen (in any case but especially so next to an AHA product)
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| what‑it‑does | soothing | antioxidant | moisturizer/humectant |
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Recently science has taken an interest in Gotu Kola as well and it turns out it really has many active compounds with several benefits.
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