Topix Pharmaceuticals

Ce + Gtp Serum

The vitamin c e + gtp serum is clinically proven to visibly brighten skin’s complexion, improve the look of wrinkles and support the microbiome.

Uploaded by: aesthetician.megan on 03/03/2024

Ingredients overview

L Ascorbic Acid, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Green Tea Polyphenols, Ergothioneine, Apigenin, Vitamin E

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Highlights

Key Ingredients

Antioxidant: L Ascorbic Acid, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Green Tea Polyphenols, Ergothioneine, Apigenin, Vitamin E

Skin brightening: L Ascorbic Acid, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Other Ingredients

Buffering: L Ascorbic Acid

Perfuming: Green Tea Polyphenols

Skim through

Ingredient name	what-it-does	irr., com.	ID-Rating
L Ascorbic Acid	antioxidant, skin brightening, buffering		superstar
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate	antioxidant, skin brightening		goodie
Green Tea Polyphenols	antioxidant, perfuming
Ergothioneine	antioxidant
Apigenin	antioxidant
Vitamin E	antioxidant	0-3, 0-3	goodie

Topix Pharmaceuticals Ce + Gtp Serum
Ingredients explained

L Ascorbic Acid - superstar

Also-called: Vitamin C, L-ascorbic acid;Ascorbic Acid | What-it-does: antioxidant, skin brightening, buffering

Works best between a concentration of 5-20%
Boosts the skin’s own collagen production
Fades pigmentation and brown spots
If used under sunscreen it boosts its UV protection
Extremely unstable and oxidizes very easily in presence of light or air
Stable in solutions with water only if pH is less than 3.5 or in waterless formulations
Vit E + C work in synergy and provide superb photoprotection
Ferulic acid doubles the photoprotection effect of Vit C+E and helps to stabilize Vit C
Potent Vit. C serums might cause a slight tingling on sensitive skin

Read all the geeky details about Ascorbic Acid here >>

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate - goodie

Also-called: Form of Vitamin C, THDA | What-it-does: antioxidant, skin brightening

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a stable, oil-soluble form of skincare big shot Vitamin C. If you do not know, why Vitamin C is such a big deal in skincare, click here and read all about it. We are massive vitamin C fans and have written about it in excruciating detail.

So now, you know that Vitamin C is great and all, but it's really unstable and gives cosmetics companies many headaches. To solve this problem they came up with vitamin C derivatives, and one of them is Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (let's call it THDA in short).

It's a really promising candidate (see below), but while reading all the goodness about it in a minute, do not forget that derivatives not only have to be absorbed into the skin but also have to be converted to pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid or AA) and the efficacy of the conversion is often unknown. In addition, vitamin C's three magic properties (antioxidant, collagen booster, skin brightener) are all properly proven in-vivo (on real people), but for the derivatives, it's mostly in-vitro studies or in the case of THDA, it's in-vitro and done by an ingredient supplier.

With this context in mind let's see what THDA might be able to do. First, it is stable (if pH < 5), easy to formulate, and a joy to work with for a cosmetic chemist.

Second, because it's oil-soluble, its skin penetration abilities seem to be great. So great in fact, that it surpasses the penetration of pure vitamin C threefold at the same concentration and it penetrates successfully into the deeper layers of the skin (that is usually important to do some anti-aging work). There is also in-vitro data showing that it converts to AA in the skin.

Third, THDA seems to have all three magic abilities of pure vitamin C: it gives antioxidant protection from both UVB and UVA rays, it increases collagen synthesis (even more than AA) and it has a skin brightening effect by reducing melanogenesis by more than 80% in human melanoma cell cultures.

So this all sounds really great, but these are only in-vitro results at this point. We could find Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate mentioned only in one published in-vivo study that examined the anti-aging properties of a silicone formula containing 10% AA and 7% THDA. The authors theorized that the 10% AA is released slowly from the silicon delivery system and probably stays in the upper layer of the skin to give antioxidant benefits, while THDA penetrates more rapidly and deeply and gives some wrinkle-reducing benefits. The study was a small (10 patients), double-blind experiment, and the formula did show some measurable anti-aging results. However, it is hard to know how much pure vitamin C or THDA can be thanked.

Bottom line: a really promising, but not well-proven vitamin C derivative that can be worth a try especially if you like experimenting (but if you like the tried and true, pure vitamin C will be your best bet).

Green Tea Polyphenols

What-it-does: antioxidant, perfuming

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.