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Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

goodie
Also-called-like-this: Form of Vitamin C, Ascorbyl Isotetrapalmitate, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, ATIP
What-it-does: antioxidant, skin brightening

Details

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a stable, oil-soluble form of skincare big shot Vitamin C. If you do not know, why Vitamin C is such a big deal in skincare, click here and read all about it. We are massive vitamin C fans and have written about it in excruciating detail.

So now, you know that Vitamin C is great and all, but it's really unstable and gives cosmetics companies many headaches. To solve this problem they came up with vitamin C derivatives, and one of them is Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (let's call it ATIP in short).

It's a really promising candidate (see below), but while reading all the goodness about it in a minute, do not forget that derivatives not only have to be absorbed into the skin but also have to be converted to pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid or AA) and the efficacy of the conversion is often unknown. In addition, vitamin C's three magic properties (antioxidant, collagen booster, skin brightener) are all properly proven in-vivo (on real people), but for the derivatives, it's mostly in-vitro studies or in the case of ATIP, it's in-vitro and done by an ingredient supplier.

With this context in mind let's see what ATIP might be able to do. First, it is stable (if pH < 5), easy to formulate and a joy to work with for a cosmetic chemist.

Second, because it's oil-soluble, its skin penetration abilities seem to be great. So great in fact, that it surpasses the penetration of pure vitamin C threefold at the same concentration and it penetrates successfully into the deeper layers of the skin (that is usually important to do some anti-aging work). There is also in-vitro data showing that it converts to AA in the skin. 

Third, ATIP seems to have all three magic abilities of pure vitamin C: it gives antioxidant protection from both UVB and UVA rays, it increases collagen synthesis (even more than AA) and it has a skin brightening effect by reducing melanogenesis by more than 80% in human melanoma cell cultures.

So this all sounds really great, but these are only in-vitro results at this point. We could find Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate mentioned only in one published in-vivo study that examined the anti-aging properties of a silicone formula containing 10% AA and 7% ATIP. The authors theorized that the 10% AA is released slowly from the silicon delivery system and probably stays in the upper layer of the skin to give antioxidant benefits, while ATIP penetrates more rapidly and deeply and gives some wrinkle-reducing benefits. The study was a small (10 patients), double-blind experiment, and the formula did show some measurable anti-aging results. However, it is hard to know how much pure vitamin C or ATIP can be thanked.

Bottom line: a really promising, but not well-proven vitamin C derivative that can be worth a try especially if you like experimenting (but if you like the tried and true, pure vitamin C will be your best bet).

Show me some proof

  • Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, Volume 11 (4) – Dec 1, 2012, Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivatives
  • Dermatologic Surgery, Mar 1, 2002, Double‐Blind, Half‐Face Study Comparing Topical Vitamin C and Vehicle for Rejuvenation of Photodamage
  • Barnet Products Corp, Stable forms of Vitamin C, Technical Bulletin, 2001

Products with Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

BeautyRX Triple Vitamin C Serum INSTYTUTUM Anti-Wrinkle Brightening C-Erum Intraceuticals Booster Vitamin C+3 Kylie Cosmetics Vitamin C Serum M-61 Vitablast C™ Face Oil MZ Skin Brighten & Perfect 10% Vitamin C Corrective Serum Perricone MD Advanced Eye Area Therapy Peter Thomas Roth Potent-C™ Power Serum SkinMedica Tns Eye Repair Sunday Riley C.E.O. Rapid Flash Brightening Serum The Ordinary Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate Solution 20% In Vitamin F Allies of Skin Vitamin C 35% Collagen Rebuilding Serum Colleen Rothschild Vitamin C Treatment Complex Korres Wild Rose 15% Vitamin C Spotless Serum Paula's Choice Resist Super Antioxidant Serum Perricone Cold Plasma Peter Thomas Roth Potent-C Power Eye Cream Peter Thomas Roth Potent-C Vitamin C Bright & Plump Moisturizer Satsuma Beauty Collagen Synthesis Face Oil • 10% Vitamin C SkinMedica Vitamin C+E Complex Sunday Riley C.E.O C+E Antioxidant Protect & Repair Moisturiser This Works Stress Check Face Oil Umoua Polar Lights Extreme Brightening Concentrate Serum Uncover Moisturizer Arcona Eye Dew Plus Aspect Extreme C 20 BIOSSANCE Squalane + Vitamin C Rose Oil Lululun Face Mask Precious White Melanie Simon Skincare Serum C Stratia C+C Serum Topix Citrix Vitamin C Pro-Collagen Brightening Serum It's Skin Power 10 Formula Vc Effector Naturie Hatomugi Skin Conditioning Gel Philosophy Miracle Worker Eye Cream Schaebens Vitamin C Konzentrat Vital Actives Vitamin C 20 Anti-Aging Serum AQ Skin Solutions Active Serum DCL C Scape High Potency Night Booster 30 Fourth Ray Glow Up Face Oil HydroPeptide Lumapro-C Serum Image Prevention + Daily Ultimate Protection Spf 50 Korres Wild Rose Vitamin C Active Brightening Oil Maya Chia The Super Blend - Pressed Serum Concentrate OLEHENRIKSEN Banana Bright Eye Crème Solal C-Serum iS Clinical White Lightening Complex Caudalie Vineactiv Glow Activating Anti-Wrinkle Serum Comme Deux #Liplove - Lip Oil DNA renewal Dna Eye Balm Epionce Intense Defence Serum