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Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3

goodie
Also-called-like-this: Retinopeptide 189

Details

A newish peptide with the promise of mimicking the effects of the skincare superstar, retinol (vitamin A) but without its negative side effects. Similar to retinol, Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3 is claimed to increase cell turnover and to promote the synthesis of collagen but without skin irritation or stinging. 

To back up its claim, the German manufacturer did a so-called gene array screening test, where they examined the effect of the molecule on 96 skin-related genes. They did screening for both retinoic acid (the active form of retinol) and our guy Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3. They found that retinoic acid upregulates 21 of the 92 studied genes, and amongst those, 16 genes are also upregulated by Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3. So they trade named the molecule as Retinopeptide 189, as in a peptide that mimics the effects of retinoic acid. 

To further prove their point, Symrise (the manufacturer) went ahead and did some ex-vivo testing (meaning testing on human skin explants). They compared a 0.1% retinoic acid solution with 5% and 10% Retinopeptide 189 cream and found that the 10% cream induces a significant increase (43%) in collagen-1 that is comparable to the effect of 0.1% retinoic acid (which performed even better with more than a 50% increase). 

They also found that both retinoic acid 0.1% and Retinopeptide 189 5% cream increased epidermal cellular layers in the skin explants showing that both ingredients can increase cell turnover, however retinoic acid did significantly better both in active effects as well as side effects.

Unfortunately, there are currently no in-vivo test results (at least with could not find any), so if you prefer the tried and true, stick with retinol. However, if you are the adventurous type or if your skin is sensitive and cannot tolerate retinoids, Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3 is a promising alternative. 

Products with Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3

SOCIÉTÉ Even Out SOCIÉTÉ Triple C Vitamin Therapy Serum Hylamide Subq Eyes NIOD Copper Amino Isolate Serum 3 1:1 (CAIS 3) The Ordinary Multi Peptide Eye Serum NIOD Copper Amino Isolate Serum 1.00% NIOD Copper Amino Isolate Serum 3 1:1 (cais3) NIOD Non-Acid Acid Precursor 15% Cyréne Buffet Multi Peptide Complex Serum Hylamide SubQ Skin Advanced Serum Hylamide Subq Skin NIOD Re: Pigment Glowbiotics MD Probiotic Brightening Renewal Lotion Lira Clinical Pro Anti Aging Pads Lira Clinical Pro Anti-aging Pads The Ordinary Multi-peptide Eye Serum NIOD Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex Nooance Sérum Peptides De Cuivre 2% Algenist Elevate Advanced Retinol Serum Glowbiotics Ultimate Youth Restoring Serum Glowbiotics Advanced Retinol Renewal Treatment Glowbiotics Probiotic Revitalizing Cleanser NIOD Multi-Molecular Hyaluronic Complex 2 (MMHC2) Bota Age-Defying Hyaluronic Acid Serum + Manuka & Ginger Root Sandra Lee MD Retinol Serum Bergen Dermatology Sheer Joy Sunscreen SPF 50+ SENTÉ Bio Complete Serum SENTÉ Bio Complete Serum NIOD Copper Amino Isolate Serum 5% Glowbiotics Probiotic Firming + Replenishing Lotion Photozyme Beyondbloc Chemfree Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Tinted PCA Skin Ideal Complex Restorative Eye Cream PCA Skin Ideal Complex Revitalizing Eye Gel Glowbiotics Probiotic Hydraglow Cream Oil Profuse Clair Concentré PCA Skin Ideal Complex Restorative Eye Cream PCA Skin Ideal Complex Restorative Eye Gel PCA Skin Ideal Complex Eye Cream PCA Skin Intensive Clarify Solution PCA Skin Intensive Clarity Treatment 0.05% Pure Retinol Glowbiotics Ultra Rich Brightening Cream PCA Skin Intensive Age Refining Treatment: 0.5% Pure Retinol