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Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate

goodie
Also-called-like-this: Form of Vitamin C
What-it-does: antioxidant, skin brightening

Details

A vitamin C derivative that's created by combining ascorbic acid (pure vitamin C) with a molecule called 3-APPA (it stands for 3-aminoproply dehydrogen phosphate). If you do not know what the big deal about vitamin C is, you are missing out, and you have to click here and read all the geeky details about it.

So now, you know that vitamin C is awesome. It's proven to have antioxidant, collagen-boosting and skin-brightening magic abilities, but the problem is that it's really really unstable. To solve the stability issue, the cosmetic industry is coming up with derivatives and Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate (AAP) is a newish version created by a Korean company.

According to the manufacturer, AAP is a water soluble, stable derivative that has both anti-wrinkle and whitening effects. They conducted an in-vivo (made on real people) study with 33 participants and found that the test formula, with just 0.5% AAP, "significantly" reduced hyperpigmentation (age spots) after 8 weeks (by 29-33%).  They also measured a "dramatic" decrease in the total number of wrinkles, about 23% after 8 weeks. (If that's dramatic, we are not sure. Also, be patient because after 4 weeks, the wrinkle reduction was only a couple of percent.)

As for published studies on AAP, we found hardly anything. We found one done by Estee Lauder that briefly mentions AAP as an antioxidant that adds additional UV protection to sunscreen formulas. Another one done by Oriflame reviewed skin-whitening ingredients and also briefly mentioned AAP as a skin-lightening active.

Overall, there is not much data on Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, but it does seem like a promising derivative with antioxidant, anti-wrinkle and skin-brightening properties. If you are into vitamin C derivatives and are happy to experiment, it's worth a go.

Show me some proof

  • Matsui, Mary S., et al. "Non-sunscreen photoprotection: antioxidants add value to a sunscreen." Journal of Investigative Dermatology Symposium Proceedings. Vol. 14. No. 1. Elsevier, 2009.
  • Gillbro, J. M., and M. J. Olsson. "The melanogenesis and mechanisms of skin‐lightening agents–existing and new approaches." International journal of cosmetic science 33.3 (2011): 210-221.

Products with Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate

Advanced Clinicals Professional Strength Vitamin C Anti Aging Serum Madre Labs Serumdipity Vitamin C Facial Serum Your Best Face (YBF-Skincare) Rescue Face Serum Glossier Super Glow Azelique Serumdipity Age Refining Vitamin C Facial Serum Tarte Youth Or Dare™ Multi-Acid & C Serum BellEvolve Lac-Luronic Serum Coop+Daisy C-Plus Day Serum Georgette Klinger Vitamin C Mask Coop+Daisy Brighten Up Glow Serum Dermalogica Biolumin-C Serum Valjean Labs Glow Facial Serum BellEvolve Vitamin C 20% Professional Serum + Phytic Acid BeeBio Lava Rotorua White Mud Masque SkinBetter Trio Rebalancing Moisture Treatment Clinique Acne Solutions™ Acne + Line Correcting Serum MAC Lightful C + Coral Grass Vibrancy Eye Cream Clinique Smart Night Custom-Repair Moisturizer- Very Dry To Dry Skin Summer Fridays Jet Lag Mask Summer Fridays Jet Lag Mask Origins Dr. Andrew Weil For Origins Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief Eye Serum Estee Lauder Perfectionist Youth-Infusing Serum Makeup Spf 25 Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair Eye Concentrate Matrix Onomie Powerful Priming Serum Este Lauder Resilience Lift Night Lifting/Firming Face And Neck Cream Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair Eye Serum Synchronized Complex II Clinique Smart Custom-Repair Serum Clinique Super Rescue Antioxidant Night Moisturizer, For Very Dry To Dry Skin La Mer The Eye Concentrate Estee Lauder Re-Nutriv Ultimate Diamond Transformative Energy Creme Estee Lauder Perfectionist Pro Rapid Firm + Lift Serum Hexapeptide-8 Estee Lauder Perfectionist Pro Rapid Firm + Lift Treatment With Acetyl Hexapeptide-8