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Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate

Also-called-like-this: Form of Vitamin C
What-it-does: antioxidant, skin brightening


A vitamin C derivative that's created by combining ascorbic acid (pure vitamin C) with a molecule called 3-APPA (it stands for 3-aminoproply dehydrogen phosphate). If you do not know what the big deal about vitamin C is, you are missing out, and you have to click here and read all the geeky details about it.

So now, you know that vitamin C is awesome. It's proven to have antioxidant, collagen-boosting and skin-brightening magic abilities, but the problem is that it's really really unstable. To solve the stability issue, the cosmetic industry is coming up with derivatives and Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate (AAP) is a newish version created by a Korean company.

According to the manufacturer, AAP is a water soluble, stable derivative that has both anti-wrinkle and whitening effects. They conducted an in-vivo (made on real people) study with 33 participants and found that the test formula, with just 0.5% AAP, "significantly" reduced hyperpigmentation (age spots) after 8 weeks (by 29-33%).  They also measured a "dramatic" decrease in the total number of wrinkles, about 23% after 8 weeks. (If that's dramatic, we are not sure. Also, be patient because after 4 weeks, the wrinkle reduction was only a couple of percent.)

As for published studies on AAP, we found hardly anything. We found one done by Estee Lauder that briefly mentions AAP as an antioxidant that adds additional UV protection to sunscreen formulas. Another one done by Oriflame reviewed skin-whitening ingredients and also briefly mentioned AAP as a skin-lightening active.

Overall, there is not much data on Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, but it does seem like a promising derivative with antioxidant, anti-wrinkle and skin-brightening properties. If you are into vitamin C derivatives and are happy to experiment, it's worth a go.

Show me some proof

  • Matsui, Mary S., et al. "Non-sunscreen photoprotection: antioxidants add value to a sunscreen." Journal of Investigative Dermatology Symposium Proceedings. Vol. 14. No. 1. Elsevier, 2009.
  • Gillbro, J. M., and M. J. Olsson. "The melanogenesis and mechanisms of skin‐lightening agents–existing and new approaches." International journal of cosmetic science 33.3 (2011): 210-221.

Products with Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate

Reviva Labs Dual Source Vitamin C Serum - Anti Aging Advanced Clinicals Professional Strength Vitamin C Anti Aging Serum Madre Labs Serumdipity Vitamin C Facial Serum Your Best Face (YBF-Skincare) Rescue Face Serum Circadia Cyto-Comm Le Mieux Vita-C Serum Reviva Labs Dark Spot Serum Riversol Anti-Redness Serum Azelique Serumdipity Age Refining Vitamin C Facial Serum NeoCutis Bio Serum Firm NeoCutis Micro Serum Riversol Anti-Aging Serum Tarte Youth Or Dare™ Multi-Acid & C Serum Yes To Watermelon Super Fresh Gel Moisturizer Advanced Clinicals Wrinkle Eraser, Vitamin C Day Cream Bougas Beauty Advanced Serum Elastalift 4X Brightening Vitamin C Anti-Aging Face Serum Le Mieux Marine Amino Vita-C Serum Reviva Labs Dark Spot Brightening Serum MUAC Fade Peel Makeup Artist's Choice Fade Peel - Skin Whitening, Brightening BellEvolve Lac-Luronic Serum ElsheSkin Radiant Skin Serum SHANI DARDEN Daily Toning Essence Coop+Daisy C-Plus Day Serum Dot & Key Vitamin C Serum Georgette Klinger Vitamin C Mask Riversol Daily Moisturizing Cream Riversol Refreshing Gel Cleanser The Raw. Arbutin 2% + Niacinamide 5% + Glutathione Advanced Clinicals Dark Spot Therapeutic Cream Advanced Clinicals Vitamin C Cream Advanced Clinicals Vitamin C Exfoliating Clay Mask Coop+Daisy Brighten Up Glow Serum Dermalogica Biolumin-C Eye Serum OXY Whitening Cream SPF 38 PA++ Platinum High Octane Vitamin C Serum SkinBetter Solo Hydrating Defense Men Dr s wong Lightening Face Cream Georgette Klinger Vitamin C Cleansing Gel Glamskin Manila Q Sunblock SPF 45+++ Dermalogica Age Smart Biolumin-C Serum Dermalogica Biolumin-C Serum Valjean Labs Glow Facial Serum BellEvolve Vitamin C 20% Professional Serum + Phytic Acid GLAMGLOW BRIGHTEYES Illuminating Anti-Fatigue Eye Cream BeeBio Lava Rotorua White Mud Masque Fancl Skin Renewal Pack Xin Ni Sung Rejuvenating Snow Mask Sendayu Tinggi Brightening Series-Anti Ageing Moisturiser