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Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate

goodie
Also-called-like-this: Form of Vitamin C
What-it-does: antioxidant, skin brightening

Details

A vitamin C derivative that's created by combining ascorbic acid (pure vitamin C) with a molecule called 3-APPA (it stands for 3-aminoproply dehydrogen phosphate). If you do not know what the big deal about vitamin C is, you are missing out, and you have to click here and read all the geeky details about it.

So now, you know that vitamin C is awesome. It's proven to have antioxidant, collagen-boosting and skin-brightening magic abilities, but the problem is that it's really really unstable. To solve the stability issue, the cosmetic industry is coming up with derivatives and Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate (AAP) is a newish version created by a Korean company.

According to the manufacturer, AAP is a water soluble, stable derivative that has both anti-wrinkle and whitening effects. They conducted an in-vivo (made on real people) study with 33 participants and found that the test formula, with just 0.5% AAP, "significantly" reduced hyperpigmentation (age spots) after 8 weeks (by 29-33%).  They also measured a "dramatic" decrease in the total number of wrinkles, about 23% after 8 weeks. (If that's dramatic, we are not sure. Also, be patient because after 4 weeks, the wrinkle reduction was only a couple of percent.)

As for published studies on AAP, we found hardly anything. We found one done by Estee Lauder that briefly mentions AAP as an antioxidant that adds additional UV protection to sunscreen formulas. Another one done by Oriflame reviewed skin-whitening ingredients and also briefly mentioned AAP as a skin-lightening active.

Overall, there is not much data on Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, but it does seem like a promising derivative with antioxidant, anti-wrinkle and skin-brightening properties. If you are into vitamin C derivatives and are happy to experiment, it's worth a go.

Show me some proof

  • Matsui, Mary S., et al. "Non-sunscreen photoprotection: antioxidants add value to a sunscreen." Journal of Investigative Dermatology Symposium Proceedings. Vol. 14. No. 1. Elsevier, 2009.
  • Gillbro, J. M., and M. J. Olsson. "The melanogenesis and mechanisms of skin‐lightening agents–existing and new approaches." International journal of cosmetic science 33.3 (2011): 210-221.

Products with Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate

Reviva Labs Dual Source Vitamin C Serum - Anti Aging Riversol Anti-Redness Serum Advanced Clinicals Professional Strength Vitamin C Anti Aging Serum Madre Labs Serumdipity Vitamin C Facial Serum Your Best Face (YBF-Skincare) Rescue Face Serum Midnight Paloma The Brightener tSoS Antioxidant Serum Advanced Clinicals Vitamin C+Ferulic Acid Antioxidant Glow Facial Mist Circadia Cyto-Comm Le Mieux Vita-C Serum Optaderm Absolute C Facial Gel Serum Optaderm Serenity Facial Serum Reviva Labs Dark Spot Serum Riversol Anti-Redness Serum Skin Moderne Elementals C-fusion The Mom's Co. Natural Vita Rich Face Cream Azelique Serumdipity Age Refining Vitamin C Facial Serum NeoCutis Bio Serum Firm NeoCutis Micro Serum Riversol Anti-Aging Serum Tarte Youth Or Dare™ Multi-Acid & C Serum The Skinthusiast Recipe Vanilla Pudding Body Lotion With SPF 65 Yes To Watermelon Super Fresh Gel Moisturizer Advanced Clinicals Wrinkle Eraser, Vitamin C Day Cream Bougas Beauty Advanced Serum Elastalift 4X Brightening Vitamin C Anti-Aging Face Serum Lacoco Hydrating Divine Essence Le Mieux Marine Amino Vita-C Serum NeoCutis Bio-serum Firm Rejuvenating Growth Factor & Peptide Treatment Reviva Labs Dark Spot Brightening Serum Skoah. Kontrol Serum Alluskin Lightbulb Serum Optaderm Control Facial Lotion Riversol Lightweight Moisturizing Lotion Skoah. Target Booster Serum Airnderm Advance Brightener Essence Gluta-C Acne Control Toner MUAC Fade Peel Makeup Artist's Choice Fade Peel - Skin Whitening, Brightening Saian Retinoid Renewal Night Serum BellEvolve Lac-Luronic Serum Dermalogica Biolumin-c Gel Moisturizer Dot & Key Underarm Color Correction Serum ElsheSkin Radiant Skin Serum Ourself Daily Dark Spot Intercept SHANI DARDEN Daily Toning Essence Wonder Potion Resist Hp ZO Skin Health Obagi Brightalive Beautederm Day And Night Toner Coop+Daisy C-Plus Day Serum