

PAPA RECIPE
Eggplant Clearing Ampoule
Uploaded on 01/14/2024
A highly concentrated ampoule that helps soothe the skin and
balance oil and water levels to help create healthy skin
Cos De BAHA
Azelaic Acid 10% Serum
Uploaded on 08/30/2019
Azelaic Acid 10% Serum 30ml with Niacinamide - Acne Scar Removal + Redness Relief
Ingredients
what‑it‑does | soothing | emollient | moisturizer/humectant |
The extract coming from the juice containing leaves of the Aloe vera plant with moisturizing, emollient and anti-inflammatory properties.
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what‑it‑does | moisturizer/humectant | solvent |
irritancy, com. | 0, 0 |
A common glycol that improves the freeze-thaw stability of products. It's also a solvent, humectant and to some extent a penetration enhancer.
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what‑it‑does | anti-acne | soothing | buffering |
Azelaic acid is a superstar acid with some serious magic properties. Before we list them out here's just a short intro.Azelaic acid is a so-called carboxylic acid.
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what‑it‑does | emulsifying | surfactant/cleansing |
irritancy, com. | 0, 0 |
It's a common little helper ingredient that helps water and oil to mix together. Also, it can help to increase the solubility of some other ingredients in the formula.
what‑it‑does | solvent |
A multi-functional helper ingredient that acts as a humectant and emollient. It's also a solvent and can boost the effectiveness of preservatives.
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what‑it‑does | solvent | moisturizer/humectant |
A natural corn sugar derived glycol. It can be used to improve skin moisturization, as a solvent, to boost preservative efficacy or to influence the sensory properties of the end formula.
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what‑it‑does | soothing | moisturizer/humectant |
irritancy, com. | 0, 0 |
Pro-Vitamin B5 is a goodie that moisturises the skin, has anti-inflammatory, skin protecting and wound healing properties.
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what‑it‑does | cell-communicating ingredient | skin brightening | anti-acne | moisturizer/humectant |
A multi-functional skincare superstar that has clinically proven anti-aging, skin lightening, anti-inflammatory and barrier repair properties.
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what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient | moisturizer/humectant |
irritancy, com. | 0, 0 |
It's the salt form of famous humectant and natural moisturizing factor, hyaluronic acid. It can bind huge amounts of water and it's pretty much the current IT-moisturizer.
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what‑it‑does | soothing | antimicrobial/antibacterial |
Witch Hazel Leaf Extract - well known soothing, astringent and antibacterial ingredient. In general, the leaves contain much less active components than the bark so it's more gentle to the skin.
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what‑it‑does | antimicrobial/antibacterial |
what‑it‑does | perfuming |
what‑it‑does | perfuming |
what‑it‑does | solvent |
Normal (well kind of - it's purified and deionized) water. Usually the main solvent in cosmetic products.
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what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient | moisturizer/humectant |
irritancy, com. | 0, 0 |
A real oldie but a goodie. Great natural moisturizer and skin-identical ingredient that plays an important role in skin hydration and general skin health.
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what‑it‑does | moisturizer/humectant |
A derivative of Urea, that works as a strong moisturizer and humectant meaning that it helps the skin to cling onto water and thus to make it hydrated and elastic.
According to manufacturer's data, Hydroxyethyl Urea has a similar moisturizing ability to glycerin (measured at 5%), but it feels nicer on the skin as it is non-sticky and non-tacky and gives a lubri
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what‑it‑does | viscosity controlling |
irritancy, com. | 0, 1 |
A handy white powder that magically converts a liquid into a nice gel formula.
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what‑it‑does | moisturizer/humectant |
A sugar beet derived amino acid derivative with nice skin protection and moisturization properties. Its special thing is being an osmolyte, a molecule that helps to control cell-water balance.
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what‑it‑does | emulsifying | surfactant/cleansing |
An emulsifier (helps oily and watery things to mix) that usually comes to the formula as the buddy of the oil-dispersible silicone powder Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer.
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what‑it‑does | buffering |
It's a little helper ingredient that helps to set the pH of the products to be right. It has an alkaline pH and can neutralize acidic ingredients.
what‑it‑does | viscosity controlling |
irritancy, com. | 0, 0 |
A cellulose (the big molecule found in the cell wall of green plants) derivative that is used as an emulsion stabilizer and thickener.
what‑it‑does | preservative |
It can boost the effectiveness of phenoxyethanol (and other preservatives) and as an added bonus it feels nice on the skin too.
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what‑it‑does | soothing | antioxidant | perfuming |
Marigold extract - contains flavonoids that give the plant anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.
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what‑it‑does | soothing | antioxidant | moisturizer/humectant |
Centella Asiatica - or sometimes also called Gotu Kola or Cica - has been used in folk medicine for hundreds of years. It’s traditionally used to improve small wounds, burns and scratches and it’s also a well known anti-inflammatory agent for eczema.
Recently science has taken an interest in Gotu Kola as well and it turns out it really has many active compounds with several benefits.
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what‑it‑does | antioxidant | soothing |
A flavonoid-rich plant extract known mainly for its soothing and antioxidant properties.
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what‑it‑does | emollient |
what‑it‑does | soothing | moisturizer/humectant |
A great skin soother and moisturizer, and it even shows promising anti-aging benefits. It‘s also shown to have wound healing properties and is a mild antioxidant.
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what‑it‑does | moisturizer/humectant |
A type of sugar that has water-binding properties and helps to keep your skin hydrated.
what‑it‑does | antioxidant |
Rutin is a polyphenol flavonoid found in many plants, for example, citrus fruits. The main reason it's used in cosmetics is its high antioxidant and free radical-scavenging ability (similar to that of superstar ascorbic acid), but also has some antibacterial nature and wound-healing properties.
There is also an in-vitro (made in Petri dishes on animal cell lines) study showing
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what‑it‑does | chelating |
Super common little helper ingredient that helps products to remain nice and stable for a longer time. It does so by neutralizing the metal ions in the formula (that usually get into there from water) that would otherwise cause some not so nice changes.
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