Micellar & Tonic Water With Coffee, Azulene And Microencapsulated Hyaluronic Acid
Highlights
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Ingredient name | what-it-does | irr., com. | ID-Rating |
---|---|---|---|
Aqua | solvent | ||
Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate/Sebacate | solvent, surfactant/cleansing | ||
Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate/Caprate | surfactant/cleansing | ||
Tocopheryl Acetate | antioxidant | 0, 0 | |
Hyaluronic Acid | skin-identical ingredient, moisturizer/humectant | goodie | |
Phenoxyethanol | preservative | ||
Coffea Arabica Seed Oil | |||
Guaiazulene | antimicrobial/antibacterial, perfuming |
Plush Bio Micellar & Tonic Water With Coffee, Azulene And Microencapsulated Hyaluronic AcidIngredients explained
Good old water, aka H2O. The most common skincare ingredient of all. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product.
It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water.
Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) is drying.
One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). Like this, the products can stay more stable over time.
We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
It’s the most commonly used version of pure vitamin E in cosmetics. You can read all about the pure form here. This one is the so-called esterified version.
According to famous dermatologist, Leslie Baumann while tocopheryl acetate is more stable and has a longer shelf life, it’s also more poorly absorbed by the skin and may not have the same awesome photoprotective effects as pure Vit E.
- It’s naturally in our skin and behaves there like a sponge
- It can bind up to 1000 times its own weight in water
- It is a big molecule from repeated subunits (polymer) so different molecular weight versions exist (unfortunately there is no way to determine MW from INCI list only)
- High-molecular-weight-HA (>500 kDa) is an excellent surface hydrator, skin protectant and can act as an osmotic pump helping water-soluble actives to penetrate deeper into the skin
- Low-molecular-weight-HA (< 500 kDa) can hydrate the skin somewhat deeper though it is still a big molecule and works mainly in the epidermis (outer layer of the skin)
- Low-molecular-weight-HA might also help the skin to repair itself by increasing its self-defense (~ 200kDa used in the study)
- Ultra-low-molecular-weight-HA (<50kDa) is a controversial ingredient and might work as a pro-inflammatory signal molecule
It’s pretty much the current IT-preservative. It’s safe and gentle, but even more importantly, it’s not a feared-by-everyone-mostly-without-scientific-reason paraben.
It’s not something new: it was introduced around 1950 and today it can be used up to 1% worldwide. It can be found in nature - in green tea - but the version used in cosmetics is synthetic.
Other than having a good safety profile and being quite gentle to the skin it has some other advantages too. It can be used in many types of formulations as it has great thermal stability (can be heated up to 85°C) and works on a wide range of pH levels (ph 3-10).
It’s often used together with ethylhexylglycerin as it nicely improves the preservative activity of phenoxyethanol.
We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
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what‑it‑does | solvent |
what‑it‑does | solvent | surfactant/cleansing |
what‑it‑does | surfactant/cleansing |
what‑it‑does | antioxidant |
irritancy, com. | 0, 0 |
what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient | moisturizer/humectant |
what‑it‑does | preservative |
what‑it‑does | antimicrobial/antibacterial | perfuming |