Highlights
Skim through
Ingredient name | what-it-does | irr., com. | ID-Rating |
---|---|---|---|
Ferulic Acid | antioxidant, antimicrobial/antibacterial | goodie | |
Hyaluronic Acid | skin-identical ingredient, moisturizer/humectant | goodie | |
Marine Collagen | emollient, moisturizer/humectant | goodie | |
Acai Oil | |||
Ceramides Vegetable Complex | |||
Peroxidase/Sod Complex | |||
Sweet Almond Oil | emollient | 0, 1-3 | goodie |
DERMAX Anatri Ferulic SerumIngredients explained
Ferulic Acid (FA) is a goodie that can be found naturally in plant cell walls. There is a lot of it especially in the bran of grasses such as rice, wheat and oats.
FA - whose main job is to be an antioxidant - owes its fame to a 2005 research that discovered that adding in 0.5% FA to a 15% Vitamin C + 1% Vitamin E solution not only stabilizes the highly unstable, divaish Vit C, but it also doubles the photoprotection abilities of the formula.
Couple of other studies show that FA just by itself is also a nice addition to cosmetic formulations: it can penetrate the skin (which is kind of important to do the job) and it has protecting properties against UV caused skin damage.
So if you spot it on the ingredient list be happy about it. :)
- It’s naturally in our skin and behaves there like a sponge
- It can bind up to 1000 times its own weight in water
- It is a big molecule from repeated subunits (polymer) so different molecular weight versions exist (unfortunately there is no way to determine MW from INCI list only)
- High-molecular-weight-HA (>500 kDa) is an excellent surface hydrator, skin protectant and can act as an osmotic pump helping water-soluble actives to penetrate deeper into the skin
- Low-molecular-weight-HA (< 500 kDa) can hydrate the skin somewhat deeper though it is still a big molecule and works mainly in the epidermis (outer layer of the skin)
- Low-molecular-weight-HA might also help the skin to repair itself by increasing its self-defense (~ 200kDa used in the study)
- Ultra-low-molecular-weight-HA (<50kDa) is a controversial ingredient and might work as a pro-inflammatory signal molecule
The chemically chopped up version of collagen coming from a marine (fish) source. It works as a moisturizer and emollient. Read more about hydrolyzed collagen here >>
This ingredient name is not according to the INCI-standard. :( What, why?!
This ingredient name is not according to the INCI-standard. :( What, why?!
The emollient plant oil that comes from almonds. Similar to other plant oils, it is loaded with skin-nourishing fatty acids (oleic acid - 55-86% and linoleic acid 7-35%) and contains several other skin goodies such as antioxidant vitamin E and vitamin B versions.
It's a nice, basic oil that is often used due to its great smoothing, softening and moisturizing properties. It's also particularly good at treating dry brittle nails (source).
You may also want to take a look at...
what‑it‑does | antioxidant | antimicrobial/antibacterial |
what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient | moisturizer/humectant |
what‑it‑does | emollient | moisturizer/humectant |
what‑it‑does | emollient |
irritancy, com. | 0, 1-3 |