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Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

goodie
Also-called-like-this: Form of Vitamin C, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbate, EAC
What-it-does: antioxidant, skin brightening

Details

A very stable and promising form of the skincare superstar, Vitamin C. If you do not know why Vitamin C is such a big deal in skin care, you can catch up here. In short, Vitamin C has three proven magic abilities: antioxidant, collagen booster, and skin brightener. The problem, though, is that it's very unstable, turns brown and becomes ineffective in no time (after a few month) and the cosmetics industry is trying to come up with smart derivatives that are stable and have the magic properties of pure Vitamin C. 

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid or EAC for short is an "etherified derivative of ascorbic acid" that consists of vitamin C and an ethyl group bound to the third carbon position. This makes Vitamin C very stable and soluble in both water and oil.

However, for a Vitamin C derivative to work it's not enough just to be stable, they also have to be absorbed into the skin and be converted there to pure Vitamin C. We have good news regarding the absorption: on top of manufacturer claims, there is some data (animal study) demonstrating in can get into the skin, and it seems to be better at it than Ascorbyl Glucoside, another vitamin C derivative.

Regarding conversion, we can cite only a manufacturers claim saying that EAC is metabolized in the skin into pure ascorbic acid (and the ascorbic acid content of EAC is very high - 86,4% - compared to the usual 50-60% Vitamin C content of other derivatives). 

As for the three magic abilities of Vitamin C, we again mostly have only the manufacturer's claims, but at least those are very promising. EAC seems to have both an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effect, and it's claimed to be able to boost the skin's collagen production. The strong point of EAC though is skin brightening. On top of manufacturer claims, there is also clinical in-vivo (tested on real people) data showing that 2% EAC can improve skin tone and whiten the skin. 

Overall, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is a very promising but not a fully proven Vitamin C derivative. It's worth a try, especially if you are after Vitamin C's skin-brightening effects. 

Show me some proof

  • Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, Volume 11 (4) – Dec 1, 2012, Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivatives

Products with Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Allies of Skin Vitamin C 35% Collagen Rebuilding Serum Dermadoctor Kakadu C Serum ElsheSkin Vitamin C Serum Hylamide Booster;C25 Medik8 Super C30 NIOD Ethylated L-Ascorbic Acid 30% Network Purid Refreshing Brightening Serum Rodial Vit C Brightening Mask The Ordinary Ethylated Ascorbic Acid 15% Solution 2Sol Facial Recovery Booster Alpha-H Vitamin C Serum Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare C + Collagen Brighten & Firm Vitamin C Serum Pacifica Sea & C Love Vitamin Serum e.l.f. Beauty Shield Vitamin C Pollution Prevention Serum ALGENIST GENIUS Ultimate Anti-Aging Vitamin C+ Serum Doctor Babor Aha 10+10 Peeling Gel Dr Dennis Gross C+ Collagen Mist Perfect Skin Set & Refresh Farmacy Invincible HELLOSKIN Jumiso Drop The Vita C Serum No7 Laboratories Dark Spot Correcting Booster Serum Skin&Lab Vita-C Essence The Chemistry Brand Retin-Oil Arbonne Genius Nightly Resurfacing Pads & Solution Corpa Flora Antidote H+ Glow Recipe Pineapple-C Bright Serum Novexpert Booster With Vitamin C OLEHENRIKSEN C-Rush™ Brightening Gel Crème Bielenda Zielona Herbata Serum (Green Tea) Hanacure Facial Peel Kiehl’s Clearly Corrective Dark Spot Solution Kiehl’s Clearly Corrective™ Brightening & Soothing Treatment Water Laboratoires Surface Meso-Glow Neutriherbs Ha Acid TonyMoly The Chok Chok Green Tea Watery Skin Toner elf Antioxidant Booster Drops LEEGEEHAAM Vita Propolis Ampoule LJH Vita Propolis Ampoule Leejiham Grow Vita Propolis Ampoule Kiehl’s Clearly Corrective Brightening & Smoothing Moisture Treatment Mario Badescu Facial Spray With Aloe, Chamomile And Lavender Alpha-H Liquid Laser Cleansing Oil Alpha-H Multivitamin Super Cream L'oreal White Perfect Clinical Derm White Essence L'oreal White Perfect Clinical Overnight Treatment Cream White Perfect Natural Pacific Phyto Niacin Whitening Essence OLEHENRIKSEN Banana Bright Eye Crème Volition Beauty Strawberry-C Brightening Serum elf Massaging Sleep Mask Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare C + Collagen Deep Cream Alpyn Beauty PlantGenius Survival Serum