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Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

goodie
Also-called-like-this: Form of Vitamin C, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbate, EAC
What-it-does: antioxidant, skin brightening

Details

A very stable and promising form of the skincare superstar, Vitamin C. If you do not know why Vitamin C is such a big deal in skin care, you can catch up here. In short, Vitamin C has three proven magic abilities: antioxidant, collagen booster, and skin brightener. The problem, though, is that it's very unstable, turns brown and becomes ineffective in no time (after a few month) and the cosmetics industry is trying to come up with smart derivatives that are stable and have the magic properties of pure Vitamin C. 

Ethyl Ascorbic Acid or EAC for short is an "etherified derivative of ascorbic acid" that consists of vitamin C and an ethyl group bound to the third carbon position. This makes Vitamin C very stable and soluble in both water and oil.

However, for a Vitamin C derivative to work it's not enough just to be stable, they also have to be absorbed into the skin and be converted there to pure Vitamin C. We have good news regarding the absorption: on top of manufacturer claims, there is some data (animal study) demonstrating in can get into the skin, and it seems to be better at it than Ascorbyl Glucoside, another vitamin C derivative.

Regarding conversion, we can cite only a manufacturers claim saying that EAC is metabolized in the skin into pure ascorbic acid (and the ascorbic acid content of EAC is very high - 86,4% - compared to the usual 50-60% Vitamin C content of other derivatives). 

As for the three magic abilities of Vitamin C, we again mostly have only the manufacturer's claims, but at least those are very promising. EAC seems to have both an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effect, and it's claimed to be able to boost the skin's collagen production. The strong point of EAC though is skin brightening. On top of manufacturer claims, there is also clinical in-vivo (tested on real people) data showing that 2% EAC can improve skin tone and whiten the skin. 

Overall, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is a very promising but not a fully proven Vitamin C derivative. It's worth a try, especially if you are after Vitamin C's skin-brightening effects. 

Show me some proof

  • Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, Volume 11 (4) – Dec 1, 2012, Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivatives

Products with a known amount of Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Other products with Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Eclat Vitamin C 20% La Clinica 30% Vitamin C Anhydrous Humectant Serum Rohto Melano CC Brightening Lotion Rohto Mentholatum Hada Labo Shirojyun Premium Whitening Essence Rohto Mentholatum Melano CC Concentration Measures Toner A&M Beauty Wellness BB Crystal Cactus Whitening Ampoules Aveil Exfol A Serum Avoskin Intensive Divine Day Cream Avoskin Luminous Emulsion Night Cream Be Minimalist Vitamin C (Ethyl Ascorbic Acid) 10% + Acetyl Glucosamine 1% Bhumi C+ Brightening Booster Bielenda Couperose Skin - Serum - Reducing The Visibility Of Capillaries Bielenda Dr Medica Capillaries Dermatological Face Serum Reducing Skin Redness Day Night Biopelle Tensage Antioxidant Defense Serum Chemist at Play Brightening Face Serum Chemist at Play Brightening Face Serum Colibri Cosmetics Vitamin C Serum Conscious Chemist Vivid C Pro Collagen Serum Control zero C The Sun Serum Cyréne Cyrene C+E+Ferulic Acid Serum Dear Me Beauty 10% Vitamin C + Orange Extract Face Serum Deconstruct Vitamin C Serum - 10% Vitamin C + 0.5 % Ferulic Acid Derma Essentia Vitamin C Serum Dermadoctor Kakadu C Serum Dermaswiss Derma C Dezi Skin Claro Que C Vitamin C Glow Serum Doctor Babor Power Serum Ampoules Vitamin C Serum Doctor Babor Vitamin C Concentrate Dr. Sheth's Amla VC20 Vitamin C Serum Duvaderm Glow C Serum ElsheSkin Vitamin C Serum Endocare C Ferulic Edafence Serum Endocare C-Ferulic Edafence Erha Truwhite Activator C Serum Eximia Hyalu C Concentré Face Theory Regena C 30% Vitamin C Serum C30 Functionalab Ellagic C+ Serum GH Gema Herrerias Gh 10 Antiox Vis GLOWLABS Glo-C Serum (Brightening Vitamin C Serum) Glo Skin Beauty Daily Power C + Hello Body 10% Vitamin C Booster Holifrog Sunnyside C Glow Serum Humphrey's Oily Brightening Intensive Serum Hylamide Booster;C25 Hyper Skin Hyper Clear Brightening Clearing Vitamin C Serum ISOMERS Skincare Vitamin C & Ferulic 15% Skin Brightening Concentrate Isana Intensiv Serum Vitamin C 10% Jeunesse Vitamin C Joa Skin Brightening Vita C With Cica Serum Jouviance Restructiv Vitamin C