
Glyco-A 12%
Highlights
Key Ingredients
Skim through
Ingredient name | what-it-does | irr., com. | ID-Rating |
---|---|---|---|
Aqua (Water) | solvent | ||
Glycolic Acid | exfoliant, buffering | superstar | |
Cetyl Alcohol | emollient, emulsifying, viscosity controlling, surfactant/cleansing | 2, 2 | |
Paraffinum Liquidum (Mineral Oil) | emollient, solvent | 0, 0-2 | |
Ceteth-20 | surfactant/cleansing, emulsifying, surfactant/cleansing | ||
Steareth-20 | emulsifying, surfactant/cleansing | 1, 2 | |
Ammonia | buffering | ||
Palmitic Acid | skin-identical ingredient, emollient, emulsifying | 0, 2 | |
Stearic Acid | emollient, viscosity controlling | 0, 2-3 |
ISIS PHARMA Glyco-A 12%Ingredients explained
Good old water, aka H2O. The most common skincare ingredient of all. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product.
It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water.
- It’s the most researched AHA with the most proven skin benefits
- It gently lifts off dead skin cells to reveal newer, fresher, smoother skin
- It can help skin’s own collagen production that results in firmer, younger skin
- It can fade brown spots caused by sun damage or PIH
- Choose a product where you know the concentration and pH value because these two greatly influence effectiveness
- Don’t forget to use your sunscreen (in any case but especially so next to an AHA product)
- Slight stinging or burning with a stronger AHA product is normal
- If your skin is very sensitive, rosacea prone choose rather a BHA or PHA product
A so-called fatty (the good, non-drying kind of) alcohol that does all kinds of things in a skincare product: it makes your skin feel smooth and nice (emollient), helps to thicken up products and also helps water and oil to blend (emulsifier). Can be derived from coconut or palm kernel oil.
The famous or maybe rather infamous mineral oil. The clear oily liquid that is the "cheap by-product" of refining crude oil and the one that gets a lot of heat for its poor provenance. It is a very controversial ingredient with pros and cons and plenty of myths around it. So let us see them:
The pros of mineral oil
Trust us, if something is used for more than 100 years in cosmetic products, it has advantages. Chemically speaking, cosmetic grade mineral oil is a complex mixture of highly refined saturated hydrocarbons with C15-50 chain length. It is not merely a "by-product" but rather a specifically isolated part of petroleum that is very pure and inert.
It is a great emollient and moisturizer working mainly by occlusivity. Occlusivity is one of the basic mechanisms of how moisturizers work and it means that mineral oil sits on top of the skin and hinders so-called trans-epidermal water loss, i.e water evaporating out of your skin. When compared to heavy-duty plant oil, extra virgin coconut oil, the two of them were equally efficient and safe as moisturizers in treating xerosis, a skin condition connected to very dry skin.
We don't have description for this ingredient yet.
A waxy solid material that helps oil and water to mix together, aka emulsifier. It is derived from the fatty alcohol called stearyl alcohol by ethoxylating it and thus making the molecule more water-soluble.
The end result is a mostly water-loving emulsifier, also called solubilizer that can help to dissolve small amounts of oil-loving ingredients into water-based products. Or it can be combined with more oil-loving emulsifiers (such as its sister, Steareth-2) to create stable emulsions.
A fatty acid that can be found naturally in the skin. In fact, it's the most common saturated fatty acid found in animals and plants.
As for skincare, it can make the skin feel nice and smooth in moisturizers (emollient) or it can act as a foam building cleansing agent in cleansers. It's also a very popular ingredient in shaving foams.
A common multi-tasker fatty acid. It makes your skin feel nice and smooth (emollient), gives body to cream type products and helps to stabilize water and oil mixes (aka emulsions).
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what‑it‑does | solvent |
what‑it‑does | exfoliant | buffering |
what‑it‑does | emollient | emulsifying | viscosity controlling | surfactant/cleansing |
irritancy, com. | 2, 2 |
what‑it‑does | emollient | solvent |
irritancy, com. | 0, 0-2 |
what‑it‑does | surfactant/cleansing | emulsifying | surfactant/cleansing |
what‑it‑does | emulsifying | surfactant/cleansing |
irritancy, com. | 1, 2 |
what‑it‑does | buffering |
what‑it‑does | skin-identical ingredient | emollient | emulsifying |
irritancy, com. | 0, 2 |
what‑it‑does | emollient | viscosity controlling |
irritancy, com. | 0, 2-3 |