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Illuminate Skin Therapies Floris Resurfacing Exfoliant

Illuminate Skin Therapies
Floris Resurfacing Exfoliant

Floris combines the time honoured antioxidant potency of 17 petals, berries and roots; a dynamic complex that fortifies and exfoliates, simultaneously; enhancing skin’s receptivity to moisture and hydration to promote plump, velvety tone + texture.
Uploaded by: emilee on

Ingredients overview

Warning: This ingredient list contains several ingredient names that do not follow the INCI nomenclature. Read here for more detail.

Illuminate Skin Therapies Floris Resurfacing Exfoliant
Ingredients explained

Organic Brown Rice Flour
Also-called: Rice Starch;Oryza Sativa Starch | What-it-does: viscosity controlling, absorbent/mattifier

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Probiotic Powder

This ingredient name is not according to the INCI-standard. :( What, why?!

Organic Acai Berry Botanical Powder
What-it-does: abrasive/scrub, antioxidant

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Organic Ginger Root Botanical Powder

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Organic Cranberry Botanical Powder
What-it-does: antioxidant

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Organic Chamomile Botanical Powder

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Organic Rosehip Botanical Powder
What-it-does: abrasive/scrub

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Organic Marshmallow Root Botanical Powder
Also-called: Marshmallow Root Extract;Althaea Officinalis Root Extract

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Organic Slippery Elm Bark Botanical Powder
What-it-does: moisturizer/humectant

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Organic Licorice Root Botanical Powder
Also-called: Licorice Powder;Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Powder

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Organic Frankincense Botanical Powder

This ingredient name is not according to the INCI-standard. :( What, why?!

Organic Yarrow Botanical Powder

This ingredient name is not according to the INCI-standard. :( What, why?!

Organic Grapeseed Botanical Powder
What-it-does: emollient

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Organic Vanilla Botanical Powder
What-it-does: abrasive/scrub

We don't have description for this ingredient yet.

Geranium Organic Essential Oil - icky
Also-called: Rose Geranium Essential Oil;Pelargonium Graveolens Oil | What-it-does: perfuming

The fragrant essential oil coming from the whole plant of Rose Geranium. It has a lovely scent with a mix of rose and citrus. 

Like most essential oils, it contains antioxidant and antimicrobial components, but the main ones are fragrant constituents (like geraniol and citronellol). Be careful with it, if your skin is sensitive. 

Bergamot Organic Essential Oil - icky
Also-called: Bergamot Essential Oil;Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Peel Oil | What-it-does: perfuming

The essential oil coming from the peel of the bergamot orange. It's a common top note in perfumes and contains (among others) fragrant compounds limonene (37%), linalyl acetate (30%) and linalool (8.8%). 

Fragrant compounds smell nice but are common allergens and can be a problem for sensitive skin types. The bigger problem with bergamot oil though, is that it also contains furanocoumarins (more specifically, bergapten and bergamottin) that have well-documented phototoxic effects. A phototoxic reaction is a not nice one causing red, edematous lesions on the affected area. We think it is a good idea to avoid bergamot oil but if you have a product that you love, make sure to use it at night only.

Nowadays, furanocoumarin-free versions of bergamot oil are also available and more and more common, and they usually go by the INCI name Bergamot Fruit Oil. 

Lavender Organic Essential Oil - icky
Also-called: Lavender Essential Oil;Lavandula Angustifolia Oil | What-it-does: antimicrobial/antibacterial, perfuming

We have to start by writing how fascinated we are by the amazing lavender fields of Provance and we do love pretty much everything about lavender: its look, its color, its scent.... but, when it comes to skincare, lavender is a questionable ingredient that you probably do not want in your skincare products.

First, let us start with the pros: it has a lovely scent, so no wonder that it is popular as a fragrance ingredient in natural products wanting to be free from synthetic fragrances but still wanting to smell nice. The scent of lavender is famous for having calming and relaxing properties and some smallish scientific studies do support that. Inhaled volatile compounds seem to have a soothing effect on the central nervous system and studies have shown that lavender aromatherapy can improve patient's anxiety and experience in hospitals.   

Another pro is that lavender oil has some nice antimicrobial and antibacterial properties. It also has some local pain relieving and muscle relaxing magical powers. Lavender oil is also often claimed to have anti-inflammatory properties. We have found a study confirming this but it was the essential oil of the leaves and not the much more commonly used flowers and the two differ in their main chemical compounds very much. (The main components of the flower essential oil are linalyl acetate and linalool [around 80% the two together] while it is 1,8-Cineole [around 65%] in the essential oil of the leaves.)

Now, let us look at the cons: similar to a bunch of other essential oils, the main components of lavender oil are potentially irritating fragrant components. The two main components are linalyl acetate (about 50%) and linalool (about 35%) and both autoxidise on exposure to the air forming strong contact allergens. To make things even worse, lavender oil seems to be cytotoxic from concentrations as low as 0.25% (concentration up to 0.125% were ok). 

There is also an often cited Japanese study that made patch tests with lavender oil for 9 years and found a huge increase in lavender oil sensitivity in 1997 (from 1.1% in 1990 to 8.7% in 1997 and 13.9% in 1998). This was the year when using dried lavender flowers in pillows, wardrobes, and elsewhere became fashionable in Japan, so it seems that increased exposure to lavender results in increased risk of sensitivity.

Overall, it makes us sad to write bad things about such a lovely plant, but when it comes to skincare, you will be better off without lavender. 

You may also want to take a look at...

what‑it‑does viscosity controlling
what‑it‑does abrasive/scrub | antioxidant
what‑it‑does antioxidant
what‑it‑does abrasive/scrub
what‑it‑does moisturizer/humectant
what‑it‑does emollient
what‑it‑does abrasive/scrub
what‑it‑does perfuming
The fragrant essential oil coming from the whole plant of Rose Geranium. It has a lovely scent with a mix of rose and citrus.  Like most essential oils, it contains antioxidant and antimicrobial components, but the main ones are fragrant constituents (like geraniol and citronellol). [more]
what‑it‑does perfuming
The essential oil from the bergamot fruit. It contains nice smelling fragrant components and also phototoxic compounds. [more]
what‑it‑does antimicrobial/antibacterial | perfuming
Lavender - essential oil with a calming scent and antimicrobial properties. Contains fragrant components (linalyl acetate - 50% and linalool - 35%) and might be cytotoxic from 0.25%. [more]
We do a Best of INCIDecoder email once a month with the most interesting products and ingredients we bump into.
*INCI is a list of the standardized and internationally accepted names used in the declaration of ingredients on cosmetic and personal care products. It is published by the Personal Care Product Council.
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