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Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine

goodie
Also-called-like-this: Sepiwhite MSH
What-it-does: skin brightening

Details

If you have pigmentation issues, Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine is something to look at. It is an amino acid (Phenylalanine) derived molecule that is thought to hinder the pigmentation process in a unique way by being a so-called MSH-antagonist

MSH stands for Melanocyte Stimulating Hormone, and as you have probably guessed by its name, it is important in the process of melanogenesis, i.e. the generation of melanin pigments. MSH binds to a receptor on the melanocyte (the skin cell that creates melanin) called Melanocortin 1 Receptor (MC1R), which kicks off a bunch of biological processes that result in the formation of pigment. Our guy, Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine can hinder this binding and thus the whole melanin creation process afterward.  

The efficacy of the molecule is definitely promising. The manufacturer did several in-vitro (in test tubes) and in-vivo (on people) tests and found Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine to be more effective than a bunch of well-known skin-lightening molecules, such as arbutin, kojic acid or MAP (the vitamin C derivative). 

We also found two research studies that show that 2% Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine is effective both in the treatment of age spots (or sunspots, the pigmentation that comes with UV and age) and melasma (that comes at a younger age and is usually influenced by hormones). A third study done by Procter&Gamble examined our amino-derivative, combined with Niacinamide and found that the combination of 1% Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine with 5% Niacinamide is more effective than niacinamide alone

Show me some proof

  • Katoulis, A. C., et al. "A randomized, double‐blind, vehicle‐controlled study of a preparation containing undecylenoyl phenylalanine 2% in the treatment of solar lentigines." Clinical and experimental dermatology 35.5 (2010): 473-476.
  • Katoulis, Alexander, et al. "A double‐blind vehicle‐controlled study of a preparation containing undecylenoyl phenylalanine 2% in the treatment of melasma in females." Journal of cosmetic dermatology 13.2 (2014): 86-90.
  • Bissett, Donald L., et al. "Reduction in the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation by topical N‐undecyl‐10‐enoyl‐l‐phenylalanine and its combination with niacinamide." Journal of cosmetic dermatology 8.4 (2009): 260-266.

Products with Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine

Aizen Whitifique Face Cream Circadia White Veil Brightener Lovinah Red-C Ampoule Aizen Sepiwhite MSH 3% Ultra Ampoule Cipher Ctrl Z Kene Dark Spot Corrector Wardah White Secret Day Cream Arcona Mandarin Brightening Peel Chuda Skin Perfecting Serum DR. SCHRAMMEK Vitamin C Beauty Flash Environ Evenescence Clarifying Lotion Epionce Melanolyte Tx Mazton Lumexa Gel Skin Whitening Neova Serious Clarity 4X Complexed Brightening Serum Perricone MD High Potency Classics Firming Eye Lift Bionike Defence B-Lucent Skin-Evening Concentrate Bright Diary Brightening Serum 5% Niacinamide ELIXIR COSMECEUTICALS Retinext Advanced Corrective Serum IOMA 7 Illumine Dark Spot Concentrate Bio-Taches Serum Elizabeth Arden Skin Illuminating Smooth And Brighten Emulsion Indeed Laboratories Pepta-Bright Kene Genwhite Dark Spot Corrector Olay Professional Prox Even Skin Tone Spot Fading Treatment Soul Apothecary Radiance Boost Serum Holy Snails Snow Shark Medik8 White Balance Original Serum Regimen Lab Level Serum Regimen Lab Level Serum Sesderma Azelac Ru Liposomal Serum Sesderma Azelac Ru Liposomal Serum Trx Ddf Discoloration Reversal Moisturizer Olay Pro X Spot Fading Essence Olay Regenerist Glow Booster Serum Olay Regenerist Luminous Anti-Ageing Skin Tone Perfecting Serum SVR Clairial Cream 10 Dermaceutic Yellow Cream Face Reality Brighten-C Mask Farmona Amberray Bright Shock Serum Glytone Triple Defense Brightening Complex Spf 30 Mazton skin solutions Lumexa Creme Olay Luminous Light Hydrating Face Lotion Revive Skincare Intensité Volumizing Serum MD Complete Dark Spot Corrector Olay ProX Anti-blemish Skin Tone-perfecting Cream SUNDARI Brightening Glow Turmeric Cream Sesderma Azelac Ru Serum Ilcsi Lightening Cream Olay Luminous Miracle Boost City Beauty Illuminating Dark Spot Corrector