We have to admit that Algae Extract is not our favorite ingredient name. It does comply with the INCI standard (the official list about how ingredients on the product labels have to be called, the thing we help you to decode here :)), but there are like 20 000 different kinds of algae and an extract from them can be made in another 10 000 ways.
So basically, Algae Extract can be anything from La Mer's "Miracle Broth" to a simple brown algae extract that helps to smooth the hair. The official description in the Europian Cosmetic Ingredient listing is this: "an extract of various species of Algae; Extract of the Seaweed, Fucus vesiculosus, Furaceae" and its official functions include being a humectant (helps skin to attract water), emollient (makes skin feel smooth and nice) and skin conditioning (a catch-all phrase for saying it does something good for the skin).
A 2015 research paper on the potential of using algae in cosmetics summarizes that algae are rich sources of biologically active metabolites including antioxidants, anti-inflammatory agents, alginates, polysaccharides, and carotenoids. Currently, algae extracts are mostly used as moisturizing and thickening agents, but algae also have great potential to combat skin aging, pigmentation as well as to works as an antimicrobial.
We have also browsed through Prospector to see what manufacturers say about their algae. There is, for example, an algae extract trade named Lanablue that comes from blue-green algae (green algae is rare, less than 1% of the total macroalgae in the world) and is claimed to have retinoid like effect (aka reduce wrinkles, smooth skin) but without the side effects.
Or there is another algae extract from another manufacturer that comes from red algae (much more common, about 40% of total macroalgae in the world) and is claimed to have not only moisturizing but also skin smoothing and densifying effect.
Or here is a brown algae extract (the most common type, about 59% of macroalgae), also just called Algae Extract on the product label that is simply claimed to be a free radical scavenger, aka antioxidant. And these were just three random examples from three manufacturers all called Algae extract even though they all come from different algae with different claims.
Anyhow, the point is this: there are tons of different types of Algae Extracts out there. Unless the brand tells you what they use, it's impossible to know. The most probable scenario for the Alge Extract is that it works as a moisturizer and emollient and it might also have some additional anti-aging properties.
- Bioresource Technology, May 1, 2015, Exploring the potential of using algae in cosmetics